Irkutsk, Siberia: Where the Wind Bites and the Stories Whisper
okay, so. irkutsk. siberia. i didn’t really know what to expect, honestly. i just saw a number - 2051523 - and thought, ‘why not?’ and booked a flight. turns out, it’s…a lot. like, a lot a lot.
I just checked and it’s spitting snow sideways right now, a proper Siberian greeting. feels like -4.63, which is… bracing. the locals aren’t exactly surprised, apparently. i overheard someone at a cafe muttering about how this is “a mild December.” wild.
I’m trying to be a responsible traveler, you know? Not just snapping pictures of pretty things (though, let’s be real, there are pretty things). I’m trying to feel the place. And Irkutsk…it feels old. Like, really old. Like it’s seen things. The architecture is a mix of everything - wooden houses with intricate carvings, grand Soviet-era buildings, and a few surprisingly modern structures. It’s a visual history lesson, if you’re paying attention.
Someone told me that the best way to understand Irkutsk is to walk along the Angara River. Apparently, it’s the lifeblood of the city. I did that. My face is numb. Worth it? Debatable. But the views… the views are something else.
I spent a good chunk of time wandering around the *central market. It’s chaotic, loud, and smells like a combination of smoked fish and something vaguely floral. I bought some dried berries - no idea what kind, but they’re chewy and sweet. I also saw a stall selling what looked like miniature wooden figurines of Siberian shamans. I almost bought one, but then I remembered I have approximately zero space in my backpack.
I’m staying in a tiny guesthouse near Irkutsk State University. It’s run by a woman named Svetlana who speaks almost no English, but she makes the best blini. Seriously, these are not your average pancakes. They’re fluffy, buttery, and served with homemade jam. I’m pretty sure she’s secretly a culinary genius. I’m trying to learn some basic Russian phrases to thank her properly. Wish me luck.
I’ve been trying to find some decent coffee. It’s… a challenge. Let’s just say I’ve had a lot of instant coffee. I did stumble upon a place called “Coffee & Books” - it’s a tiny, cozy spot with a surprisingly good selection of literature. I’m currently reading a translation of Dostoevsky. Feeling very Russian.
If you get bored, Lake Baikal is just a short drive away. I’m planning a day trip tomorrow, weather permitting. Apparently, it’s the deepest lake in the world. I heard that the ice in winter is so clear you can see straight to the bottom. Sounds magical, right?
I also heard a drunk guy at the bar warning me about the local cats. Apparently, they’re fiercely territorial. Don’t make eye contact. Seriously.
Pro-Tips for Irkutsk:
Pack everything warm. Like, seriously. Layers are your friend.
Learn a few basic Russian phrases. It will make your life so much easier.
Try the blini. Seriously, just do it.
Be respectful of the local culture. People here are generally friendly, but they appreciate politeness.
Don’t stare at the cats.
I’m using TripAdvisor to find some good restaurants - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298486-Irkutsk_Irkutsk_Oblast.html. Yelp isn’t really a thing here, sadly. I’m also checking out the local forums for events - https://irkutsk.ru/.
It’s weird, you know? Being so far from everything. But it’s also… liberating. Like I can just be. No expectations. No pressure. Just me, a lot of snow, and a city full of stories waiting to be discovered. I’m going to check out some local art galleries tomorrow. Maybe I’ll find something to bring home that isn’t dried berries.
Oh, and the pressure is 1002, humidity is 94, ground level is 952. Just in case you were wondering.
More updates soon (hopefully with better coffee).
https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Irkutsk%2C+Russia