Is Khartoum a Good Place to Live? 2026 Honest Review
okay, so. khartoum. people ask me all the time, "should i move there?" and honestly? it depends. it really depends. i'm an aspiring comedian, and i needed a place where i could bomb spectacularly without, like, everyone knowing my grandma. khartoum felt…right.
right now, it's that kind of heat where the air itself feels sticky and judgmental. like it's personally offended you're breathing it. it's not the dry heat of, say, egypt (a quick flight away, if you're escaping the existential dread), it's…humid. swampy. you'll sweat through everything. everything. i'm talking multiple outfit changes a day. and the dust. oh god, the dust. it gets everywhere.
so, let's get down to brass tacks. i've been here six months, and i've pieced together a semi-coherent picture. the job market? tricky. unless you're in oil, aid work, or can somehow convince people you're a master of something they desperately need, you're looking at a struggle. i've been doing open mics (mostly to confused stares) and freelance joke writing (mostly unpaid). a friend of mine, a consultant, was telling me about how the expat packages are shrinking. apparently, companies are realizing they can pay people less to do the same work. delightful.
rent is…weird. you can get a decent apartment in *Burri for around $300-$500 a month, but it'll probably have questionable plumbing and a resident gecko. nicer places in Khartoum North will run you $800+, and you're still rolling the dice on consistent electricity. i've heard horror stories about landlords. like, really horror stories.
drunk advice from a guy i met at a shisha cafe: "never, ever pay a deposit in cash. get everything in writing. and if the landlord looks like he enjoys power imbalances, run."
let's talk safety. it's…complicated. the official line is “exercise caution,” which is code for “things could get dicey.” there's a military presence everywhere, which is both reassuring and unsettling. petty theft is common, so don't flash your cash. and be aware of your surroundings, especially at night. i've been told to avoid certain areas after dark, but honestly, i mostly just stay inside and work on my material. you can find more info on travel advisories here: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/Country-Information-Pages/Sudan.html.
overheard gossip at a coffee shop: "apparently, there's a black market for imported cheese. seriously. people are willing to pay a fortune for a slice of cheddar."
food is…interesting. lots of ful medames (fava beans), asida (a porridge-like dish), and grilled meat. if you're a vegetarian, prepare to be challenged. i've found a few decent restaurants, but they're mostly geared towards expats. check out reviews on https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g293783-Khartoum_Khartoum_State.html. the street food is amazing, but proceed with caution. your stomach will thank you (eventually).
nightlife? limited. there are a few bars and clubs, but they're mostly frequented by expats. i've found a few hidden gems, but i'm not sharing those secrets. you gotta earn them. i did find a local subreddit where people discuss events: https://www.reddit.com/r/sudan/.
something a local warned me about: "don't talk politics. just…don't. it's not worth it."
overall? khartoum isn't for the faint of heart. it's chaotic, frustrating, and often bewildering. but it's also…real. it's a place where you're forced to confront your assumptions and step outside your comfort zone. and sometimes, that's exactly what you need. plus, the sunsets over the Nile* are pretty spectacular. you can find some local experiences listed on https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Things+to+Do&find_loc=Khartoum%2C+Sudan.
would i recommend it? maybe. if you're looking for an adventure, and you're okay with a little bit of discomfort, then yeah. give it a shot. just…pack a lot of sunscreen.
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