Istanbul's Back Alleys & Cucumber Dreams: A Botanist's Bewilderment
okay, so. istanbul. right? i wasn’t expecting this. i mean, i knew it’d be… something. but the sheer density of life here? it’s overwhelming in the best possible way. i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in peat moss and meticulously cataloging lichen. this? this is… organized chaos.
I just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, almost apologetic rain. feels like 10.99 degrees. the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp hug. i’m pretty sure my camera lens is permanently fogged. i’m staying in a tiny apartment in *Balat, which is… a lot. the walls are paper-thin. i can hear the neighbor arguing with his cat about the merits of tuna versus salmon. it’s a constant soundtrack.
I’ve been mostly wandering, just letting the city swallow me whole. the smells! oh god, the smells. roasting chestnuts, spices i can’t even name, the salty tang of the Bosphorus, and… something vaguely floral and slightly unsettling. i think it’s coming from the courtyards.
Someone told me that the best way to experience Istanbul is to get hopelessly lost. they were right. i spent a good three hours yesterday just following a stray cat through a maze of alleyways. ended up in a tiny tea garden overflowing with jasmine and bougainvillea. the tea was strong, the company even stronger.
“Don’t trust the pigeons,” a very old woman with a shawl whispered to me as I passed. “They’re spies for the seagulls.”
I’m trying to document the urban flora, obviously. it’s surprisingly resilient. weeds pushing through cracks in the pavement, vines clinging to ancient walls, tiny wildflowers blooming in unexpected places. i found a patch of wild mint growing next to a kebab stand. seriously!
I’ve been eating so many cucumbers. they’re everywhere. pickled, raw, in salads, in juice… it’s a cucumber obsession. i even saw a street vendor selling cucumber-flavored ice cream. i didn’t try it. yet.
Pro-Tips (because apparently I'm doing a list now):
*Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable. you will walk. a lot.
*Learn a few basic Turkish phrases. “Teşekkür ederim” (thank you) goes a long way.
*Bargain respectfully. it’s expected, but don’t be a jerk about it.
*Don’t drink the tap water. seriously.
*Embrace the chaos.* it’s part of the charm.
I heard that the Grand Bazaar is a tourist trap, but still worth a quick look. TripAdvisor has some… interesting opinions. Also, Yelp says the best baklava is at Hafiz Mustafa 1864. i’m going to investigate.
If you get bored, Bursa and Edirne are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to see some more traditional Ottoman architecture.
I’m also trying to find some local botanical societies. This forum looks promising. And I'm checking out this local board for tips on finding rare plants.
Honestly, i’m exhausted. but in a good way. like, pleasantly overwhelmed. i need more tea. and probably another cucumber.
“The cats know the secrets of the city,” a drunk man slurred at me outside a cafe. “Listen to the cats.”
I think i will.
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