Izmir: Dust, Figs, and a Drum Solo with a Stray Cat
okay, so izmir. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, just a backpack full of sticks and a vague promise to meet a guy who builds custom snare drums. turns out, he’s also a competitive backgammon player and smells perpetually of *figs.
my flight number was 298806, which feels important somehow, like a secret code to unlock the city’s weirdness. and it is weird. in a good way. like, the kind of weird where you turn a corner and there’s a man selling only miniature ceramic frogs.
i just checked and it’s…a bit damp, actually, hovering around thirteen point nine degrees, but it feels colder, like thirteen point zero. the air pressure is kinda intense, too - one thousand and fifteen, apparently. makes your ears pop if you think about it too hard. humidity’s at sixty-five, which explains the slightly sticky feeling on everything.
spent yesterday wandering around kemeraltı bazaar. it’s a labyrinth. seriously. i got lost approximately seventeen times and ended up buying a fez. don’t ask. someone told me that the spice sellers are masters of psychological warfare, subtly guilt-tripping you into buying saffron you absolutely don’t need. i think it’s true. i definitely bought saffron i don’t need.
“apparently, the best baklava is from this tiny shop near the mosque. but you have to get there before noon, or it’s all gone. and the owner will glare at you.”
that’s what the guy at the hotel said, anyway. he also warned me about the stray cats. not because they’re dangerous, but because they’re judgmental. and he wasn’t wrong. i tried to have a drum solo in the park, and this one tabby just stared at me like i was ruining its afternoon. it was deeply unsettling.
gear-wise, i’m traveling light. mostly just:
a good pair of earplugs (essential)
my trusty sticks (obviously)
a universal adapter (because, duh)
a ridiculously oversized scarf (it gets chilly)
a phrasebook (my turkish is…developing)
if you get bored, *çeşme and alaçatı* are just a quick dolmuş ride away. i haven’t been yet, but i’ve heard the beaches are amazing. apparently, alaçatı is super trendy with windsurfers.
I overheard someone complaining on Yelp about the traffic. Apparently, it's a nightmare during rush hour. Check out the reviews here. I also saw a post on a local forum (Izmir Expats) warning about pickpockets in the bazaar, so keep your valuables close. TripAdvisor (Izmir TripAdvisor) has a ton of info on tours and attractions, if you're into that sort of thing. And if you're looking for a good place to eat, this blog (Turkey Travel Center) has some recommendations.
this city smells like roasted chestnuts and sea salt. and maybe a little bit of cat judgment. i’m not sure i’ll ever fully understand it, but i’m definitely enjoying the attempt. i think i’ll go find that baklava now. wish me luck. and maybe send earplugs.