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jabalpur: marble, monsoon, and mild confusion

@Julian Moss2/6/2026blog
jabalpur: marble, monsoon, and mild confusion

okay, so i’m back. like, actually back. and i’m already questioning every decision that led me to india. it’s… a lot. i just checked and it’s… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the weather app is currently screaming ‘47°C’ which, honestly, feels a little dramatic. but also, i’m sweating, so maybe it’s accurate?

anyway, i spent a few days in jalapur, which is in madhya pradesh. it’s kind of a weird place, you know? like, really interesting, but also… chaotic. it’s on the narmada river, which is pretty, i guess, if you like rivers. and there are these massive marble rocks - the marble rocks at bhedaghat, apparently one of only three gorges worldwide. it’s seriously impressive, like, huge, pinky-white chunks of marble just… hanging out.

red boat on body of water near brown rock formation during daytime

i took a boat trip through the gorge - it was a little cramped, and the guy selling snacks kept trying to get me to buy a mango, but it was cool.

there’s also this thing called dhuandhar falls, which is basically a smoke cascade. it’s… misty. and loud. and wet. someone told me that the locals call it ‘the devil’s breath,’ which is a little creepy, but also kind of fitting.

silhouette of trees during sunset


seriously, check out the map. it’s a bit of a confusing place to navigate, to be honest. the ring road is insane - like, the second-longest in india! but also, there’s construction everywhere. it’s a constant battle against piles of gravel and confused drivers.

food-wise? it’s wheat-based, apparently. lots of rice and jowar and gram. i didn’t really try anything amazing, to be honest. i mostly just ate samosas and chai. someone told me that the local street food is surprisingly good, but i wasn’t brave enough.

there’s a high court there, which is a big deal, apparently. and it’s the judicial capital. and they have this elevated corridor - the longest in the state! it’s… a lot of infrastructure. it feels a bit like a place that’s trying really hard to be important.

neighboring cities? if you get bored, indore is about 49 miles away - though distances are weird here. and there are national parks nearby, like kanha and bandhavgarh. i didn’t have time to go, but i heard they’re pretty cool.

overall, it’s a strange place. humid, hot, and a little overwhelming. but also… kind of beautiful in a rugged, chaotic way. the culture is a mix of hindu, buddhist, and jain influences, which is interesting. it’s a bit like stepping back in time, but with a lot of cars and construction.

just a heads up: bring sunscreen. and a hat. and maybe a therapist.

gray concrete statue of man in water


seriously, the monsoon season is brutal. i heard it’s best to visit in october-april. i’m not sure i’m brave enough for that. i’m already regretting this trip, but… i’m also kind of glad i came. i don’t know. it’s complicated.


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About the author: Julian Moss

Unapologetically enthusiastic about niche topics.

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