Jerusalem: Dust, Dates, and a Drummer's Dilemma

okay, so jerusalem. it’s…a lot. i landed with a kit bag full of sticks and a vague idea of finding somewhere to jam. the flight number was 281102, which feels important somehow, like a secret code to unlock the city. or maybe i just need sleep.

right now, it’s hovering around sixteen point something degrees, but it feels cooler, like a damp wool blanket. the humidity is a solid seventy-four percent, which is basically breathing soup. the air pressure is…normal, i guess? 1018. who even cares about air pressure when you’re trying to find a decent falafel?

finding a place to play has been…challenging. i’ve been wandering the *Old City, trying to get a feel for the scene. it’s less “jam session” and more “ancient stones and intense staring.” i overheard someone in a cafe muttering about a secret underground jazz club near Jaffa Gate, but honestly, that could have been the cardamom in my coffee talking.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you free dates,” a guy with a surprisingly loud voice told me. “They’re either cursed or trying to sell you a timeshare.”

seriously. cursed dates. this place is wild. i checked TripAdvisor and it's full of people raving about the Western Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which, yeah, cool, but where’s the music? i need a drum circle, not a pilgrimage.

my airbnb host, a lovely woman named Miriam, keeps offering me tea and warnings about the local cats. apparently, they’re master strategists. she said if you get bored, Tel Aviv and Bethlehem are just a quick bus ride away. she also mentioned something about a legendary oud player who lives near the Mahane Yehuda Market, but i haven’t been able to track him down yet.

i heard from a guy at a record store (yes, they still exist!) that the best place to find musicians is around the Russian Compound*. apparently, there’s a whole network of artists and performers hiding out there. Yelp reviews for the area are…mixed. lots of complaints about parking, but also a few mentions of impromptu jam sessions.

someone told me that the hummus at Abu Shukri is life-changing, but be prepared to queue. i also overheard a very drunk tourist advising everyone to avoid the alleyways after dark, which feels like solid advice regardless of location.

i just checked and it's…a bit breezy right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the ground level pressure is 1011, which, again, feels irrelevant. i’m starting to think i packed too many cymbals. maybe i should have brought a harmonica instead. or just stayed home and practiced. nah, too late now. jerusalem, you’re a beautiful, chaotic mess, and i’m here for it.

Here's a local guide to Jerusalem. And some more info on the Old City. Check out this forum for local events.