Jerusalem: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Confusing Bus System

okay, so jerusalem. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i went expecting ancient history and postcard views. i got that, sure, but also a whole heap of organized chaos. i’ve been wandering around for days, and i’m pretty sure i’ve walked in circles at least twice.

i just checked and it’s feeling kinda damp, like someone spilled a lukewarm tea all over everything, hope you’re okay with that. the air smells like stone and something sweet - probably dates. seriously, dates are everywhere. i’ve eaten, like, seven already.

getting around is…an experience. the buses are a labyrinth. i swear they change numbers on a whim. i overheard someone at a *cafe complaining that the number 28 used to go to the old city, but now it just loops around a parking lot. apparently, it’s a conspiracy. i’m not even kidding. you can find some bus routes here: https://www.citypassguide.com/jerusalem/transportation/.

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i heard from a guy with a really impressive beard that you have to haggle at the shuk (market). like, it’s considered rude not to. he said he got a pomegranate for, like, half price. i tried it, and i think i just ended up paying what the vendor originally wanted, but hey, i tried.

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my accommodation is…basic. it’s a little room above a bakery, which is amazing for the smell, less amazing for the early morning noise. the walls are thin, and my neighbor keeps practicing the oud. it’s beautiful, but at 7 am, it’s a bit much. if you get bored, ramallah and bethlehem are just a quick shared taxi ride away. i haven’t ventured that far yet, but it’s on the list.

food-wise, it’s incredible. i’ve been living on falafel, hummus, and that aforementioned date obsession. i tried to find a highly-rated restaurant on yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Jerusalem, but honestly, the best meals i’ve had have been from street vendors. someone told me to avoid the shawarma place near jaffa gate - apparently, it gave a whole tour group food poisoning. i’m steering clear.

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a woman at the western wall told me that the best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons - spring or fall. she said summer is just…too many people, and winter is freezing. she also warned me about pickpockets, which, fair enough.

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my camera’s been working overtime. the light here is insane. everything looks ancient and dramatic. i’ve been trying to capture the feeling of the place, but it’s hard. it’s not just the buildings or the streets*; it’s the energy. it’s overwhelming, beautiful, and a little bit terrifying. i’ve been posting some of my shots on my instagram https://www.instagram.com/ (link is a placeholder, obviously). i also found this cool forum about jerusalem: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g293977-i6286-Jerusalem.html.

honestly, i’m exhausted. i need more dates and a nap. and maybe a map that actually makes sense. jerusalem, you’re a wild one.