Kabul: Dust, Chai, and a Whole Lot of Questions

okay, so kabul. it’s…a lot. i’m still processing, honestly. landed with those numbers swirling in my head - 1221194 and 1762798596 - felt like some kind of code, a secret handshake for getting through customs. which, by the way, was surprisingly chill.

i’m a vintage clothes picker, right? so i’m always on the hunt for the real stuff, the things that tell a story. and Kabul? It’s overflowing with stories. Layers and layers of them. The markets are insane. Like, seriously, prepare to be overwhelmed. I spent a good three hours just wandering through the old city, getting lost in the maze of stalls. Found a stunning embroidered shawl - seriously, the detail is incredible - and a pair of leather boots that look like they’ve seen a few lifetimes.

the weather? i just checked and it’s…a dry heat, clinging to everything like a second skin. sixteen point four three degrees, they said. feels like fifteen point one five. honestly, it just feels like dust. beautiful dust, but dust nonetheless. the air pressure is a bit wonky, 1019, and the humidity is practically nonexistent at 39%. my skin is screaming for moisture. i’ve been slathering myself in anything i can find.

i’ve been staying in a guesthouse near the *bazaar. it’s basic, but clean, and the owner, a guy named Farid, makes the best chai i’ve ever tasted. He keeps warning me about pickpockets, which, fair enough. He also told me about a hidden courtyard where local artists sell their work. Apparently, it’s a bit of a secret, you have to ask around.

someone told me that the Chicken Street restaurants are overpriced tourist traps. “Stick to the smaller places,” they said, “that’s where you’ll find the real food.”

i overheard some backpackers at the guesthouse talking about Babur Gardens. They said it’s a peaceful escape from the chaos of the city. TripAdvisor has some photos. i’m planning to check it out tomorrow.

the neighbors? well, let’s just say they’re…resilient. Kabul has been through so much, and you can feel it in the air. But there’s also a sense of hope, a determination to rebuild. if you need a break from the city, i heard that the Panjshir Valley is just a few hours away, offering stunning mountain scenery. You can find more info on this travel blog.

i tried to find a decent coffee shop, but no luck. Apparently, tea is king here. Which, honestly, i’m not complaining about. Farid’s chai is seriously addictive. I did find a little bakery that sells naan* - the bread is incredible.

a local warned me about taking photos of people without asking. “It’s considered very disrespectful,” he said. “Always ask permission first.”

i’ve been trying to learn a few basic phrases in dari, but it’s tough. Everyone i’ve met has been incredibly patient and welcoming, though.

someone told me that the National Museum of Afghanistan is worth a visit, but it’s often closed for security reasons. Check their Facebook page before you go. i also heard that the Kabul Zoo is…an experience. Apparently, the conditions are pretty sad, so i’m not sure if i’ll bother. Here's a Yelp review.

it’s late now, and i’m exhausted. My brain is fried from trying to absorb everything. Kabul is not an easy city, but it’s a fascinating one. It’s a place that challenges you, that forces you to confront your own preconceptions. And that, i think, is what makes it so special. i’m not sure what tomorrow will bring, but i’m ready for it. or, at least, i’m pretending to be.