kakinada’s cracked sidewalks & the ghosts of unfinished murals

the air’s got that sticky-fried-chicken vibe today-27.6°C of pure ‘why am I wearing pants’ energy. humidity at 41% means your eyeliner might survive, but your dignity won’t. i’m posted up near *Gandhi Nagar Market, watching a stray dog confidently steal bananas from a vendor who’s too busy arguing about cricket scores to notice.

someone told me Uppada Beach empties out after sunset except for fishermen betting on ludo matches. I heard that from a guy chain-smoking Gold Flakes behind a chai stall, so take it with a grain of masala. if you’re itching to bounce, Rajahmundry and Amalapuram are a bus ride away-both smell like jasmine and regret.

don’t sleep on Sri Bhavanarayana Swamy Temple-not for the prayers, but for the old ladies selling tamarind candies out of their purses. Pro-tip: carry exact change. they will chase you. a drunk architect slurred that Panduranga Swamy Temple’s carvings hide secret graffiti from the 80s. i haven’t found it yet, but i did find a rat the size of a toddler napping behind the offering box.

need wifi? Cafe 1947 lets you loiter if you buy one chai every three hours (per an argument i witnessed with a guy livestreaming his haircut). check Kakinada’s sardine-packed ferry schedule before trying to island-hop, unless you enjoy sweating on strangers. final warning: someone at KRK Chicken Biryani Hub* warned me the ‘medium spice’ level is a lie. bring milk.

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