Kathmandu Chaos: Dust, Dhal, and Definitely a Headache
okay, so i’m pretty sure my brain is currently operating at 78% capacity. i just landed, and honestly, it feels like someone dumped a whole bag of spices directly into my sinuses. kathmandu. it’s… intense. i’m writing this from a tiny rooftop cafe overlooking Thamel, and the air smells like incense, exhaust, and something vaguely floral that i can’t quite place. it’s… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I’m tracking the weather - 22.88°C, feels like 22.06, temp min 22.88, temp max 22.88, pressure 1013, humidity 32, sea level 1013, grnd level 1008. basically, a sticky, slightly sweaty kind of day. perfect.
I was supposed to be photographing the Pashupatinath Temple - seriously, the energy there is something. But, you know, the usual. a guy tried to sell me a yak skull, a scooter driver nearly took out my ankles, and i spent a solid twenty minutes arguing with a street vendor about the price of a yak butter tea (nope, still not doing that).
Let’s talk gear, because i’m already regretting bringing half my suitcase.
Camera: Canon R6 - obviously. gotta capture the madness.
*Lenses: 24-70mm, 70-200mm - the essentials. and a cheap 50mm for when i’m feeling rebellious.
*Backpack: Osprey Atmos AG 65 - my lifeline. seriously, it’s a miracle.
*Water Filter: Sawyer Squeeze - don’t get dysentery, people.
*Headlamp: Petzl Actik Core - because darkness falls early and things get… interesting.
*Sarong: For everything. seriously, everything.
I overheard some seriously drunk advice from a guy at the bar last night. someone told me that the best dal bhat you’ll ever have is at Bhojan Nepali Restaurant - apparently, it’s a pilgrimage for foodies. i’m skeptical, but i’m willing to try. check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/bhojan-nepali-restaurant-kathmandu.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Pokhara is just a short drive away. Apparently, it’s all lakes and mountains. sounds… peaceful. which is a terrifying thought after this.
I also stumbled across this incredible little shop selling hand-woven textiles. the owner, a woman named Maya, told me that each pattern represents a different story from her village. it was genuinely moving. i’m thinking of getting a shawl - or maybe five.
Here’s a snippet from a conversation I overheard near Durbar Square:
“Don’t trust the guy with the saffron robes. He’ll try to convince you to donate to a fake orphanage. Seriously, just walk away.”
Okay, that’s a solid warning. i’m adding that to my mental checklist.
I’m heading to Boudhanath Stupa next - apparently, it’s the largest spherical stupa in Nepal. i’m hoping for some good photo ops and maybe a slightly less chaotic experience.
I found this TripAdvisor page with some helpful tips: https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionGroupReview-g298699-d1238333-Kathmandu_Valley_Thakaltal_Narayan_Dhoka-Kathmandu_Bagmati_Zone.html.
And, just in case you’re planning a trip, here’s a map of the area:
I heard that the best place to get a chai is at Tea House Kathmandu - apparently, they use real black tea* and not that awful powdered stuff. i’m holding them to that.
Seriously, this place is a sensory overload. it’s beautiful, it’s terrifying, and it’s definitely a trip i won’t forget. i’m going to go find some more dal bhat. wish me luck.
Check out this local forum for more recommendations: https://www.reddit.com/r/Kathmandu/