Kathmandu Chaos: My Brain, My Boots, and a Whole Lot of Momo
okay, so. kathmandu. where do i even begin? i’m still pretty sure my internal organs are rearranging themselves after the sensory overload. i’m a botanist, right? I’m supposed to be calmly identifying ferns and cataloging mosses. Instead, I spent three days dodging scooters, bartering for yak wool, and trying to figure out if that spice vendor was genuinely offering me saffron or just… really orange turmeric.
I just checked and it's… a humid blanket draped over everything right now. Thirty-something degrees, feels like even less thanks to the constant dust. Pressure’s steady, though, which is nice. I guess. I’m not a meteorologist. I’m supposed to be looking at plants.
Honestly, the sheer energy of this place is something else. It’s like everyone is simultaneously rushing to an important appointment and also completely unconcerned about being late. I spent a good hour just watching people navigate the *Thamel roundabout - a ballet of near misses and honking horns. It’s… exhilarating, in a slightly terrifying way.
I was trying to find some rare Himalayan blue poppies, you know, Meconopsis betonicifolia. The holy grail of my current research. No luck. Found a lot of interesting weeds, though. And a surprisingly aggressive rooster.
“Don’t trust the chai wallahs near Durbar Square. They’ll lace it with something to make you forget your wallet.”
That’s what a very serious-looking woman with a prayer wheel told me. Drunk advice, probably. But I kept my wallet close regardless. I did find some amazing momo though. Seriously, the best I’ve ever had. I think I ate my weight in them. Check out this place on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/yak-and-yet-kathmandu. You won’t regret it.
I spent a morning wandering through the Garden of Dreams, which was a welcome respite from the chaos. It’s this little oasis of tranquility in the middle of the city. Seriously, go. It’s worth it. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g293883-d117788-Reviews-Garden_of_Dreams-Kathmandu_Kathmandu_Valley_Nepal.html
Someone told me that the best way to experience Pashupatinath Temple is to just… show up early and observe. Don’t try to understand everything, just be there. I did that, and it was… intense. A lot of rituals, a lot of incense, a lot of… life. It’s not for everyone, I guess. But it was definitely a powerful experience. You can find more info here: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/nepal/kathmandu-valley/pashupatinath-temple
If you get bored, Pokhara and Bhaktapur are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it to either this time, but I’ve heard good things. Next time, maybe.
I’m still trying to process everything. My camera roll is full of blurry photos of scooters and spice stalls. My notebook is filled with scribbled observations about plant life and the general vibe of the place. And my stomach is full of momo.
I’m not sure I’d call it relaxing, but it was definitely… memorable. Kathmandu is not a place you forget easily. It’s a place that gets under your skin, into your bones, and into your dreams. I’m already planning my return trip. Maybe next time I’ll actually find those blue poppies. Or at least avoid the aggressive rooster.
Oh, and one last thing: apparently, the local cats are very* territorial. Just a heads up. Check out this forum for more tips: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nepal/