Kathmandu Chaos: Noodles, Ghosts, and Seriously Weird Weather
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and yak butter tea. kathmandu… it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, terrifying, slightly-smelly lot. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stepped into a Bollywood movie directed by a caffeinated badger.
first off, the weather. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s this weird, clinging humidity mixed with a breeze that smells vaguely of incense and something i can’t quite place - maybe old tires? it’s… intense. the air pressure is holding steady at 1013, which is… reassuring, i guess?
my hotel, the ‘Lost Buddha Inn’ (seriously, the name), is tucked away down a ridiculously narrow alley. it’s basically a warren of rooms and courtyards, and the guy who runs it, Ramesh, keeps offering me cardamom tea and telling me stories about the ghosts that supposedly haunt the building. he’s a total character. someone told me that the original owner was a powerful shaman who died mysteriously, and his spirit still wanders the halls, looking for his lost amulet. i’m not saying i believe it, but i’m also not not saying it.
i spent the afternoon wandering Durbar Square, dodging scooters and trying not to get completely overwhelmed. it’s just… packed. with people, with stalls selling everything from prayer flags to yak cheese, with the crumbling remains of ancient temples. it’s beautiful and heartbreaking all at once. i managed to snag some momos from a street vendor - seriously, the best i’ve ever had. they were about 20 rupees, which is basically pocket change.
i also checked out Thamel, the tourist district. it’s a chaotic mess of shops selling trekking gear, souvenirs, and questionable electronics. i got hopelessly lost for about an hour, but eventually stumbled upon a tiny little cafe that served the most amazing coffee. it’s run by a guy named Sanjay, who claims to have trained in Italy. i heard that he uses beans imported directly from Ethiopia - probably a lie, but the coffee was still incredible. i’m seriously considering buying a portable espresso machine just to replicate it.
i’m trying to keep my gear list minimal, but here’s the gist: sturdy boots (essential), a good water bottle, a sarong (for covering up and general coolness), and a phrasebook. i also brought a portable charger - because, let’s be honest, i’m perpetually running out of battery. and a notebook, obviously. i’m documenting everything.
*Pro-Tip: Don’t be afraid to haggle. Seriously, it’s expected. And always carry small change. Also, learn a few basic Nepali phrases. “Namaste” goes a long way. And, be prepared to be overwhelmed. It’s part of the experience.
Speaking of experiences, i ran into a group of backpackers at the cafe who were heading to Pokhara. they were all raving about the Annapurna Circuit trek. someone told me that it’s incredibly challenging, but also unbelievably rewarding. i’m tempted to join them, but i’m also pretty exhausted.
I’m heading out to explore some of the less-touristy areas tonight. i heard there’s a hidden temple just outside the city that’s said to be incredibly peaceful. i’m hoping to find a little bit of calm amidst the chaos. if you get bored, Bhaktapur and Patan are just a short drive away.
Seriously, this place is wild. i’m going to try and get some sleep, but i’m pretty sure i’ll be dreaming about momos and ghosts.
Resources:
TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/
Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/
Kathmandu Local Board: https://www.kathmandu.gov.np/
And seriously, check out this map: