Kazakhstan's Almaty: Where the Mountains Meet the Concrete (and My Sanity Frayed a Little)
okay, so almaty. where do i even begin? i’m a botanist, right? supposed to be all about delicate ecosystems and the quiet rustle of leaves. but almaty…almaty is a full-on sensory assault. in the best, most chaotic way possible.
I just checked and it’s…a damp, grey sort of day. hovering around 12 degrees Celsius, feels like 11. pressure’s dropping, humidity’s clinging to everything like a lovesick teenager. perfect weather for wandering, honestly. i mean, not perfect perfect, but perfect for embracing the slightly melancholy vibe this city has.
I was here for a conference - something about alpine flora and climate change, super my usual thing. but honestly, the conference itself was a blur. i spent most of my free time just…observing. the city is a weird mix of soviet-era brutalism and shiny new skyscrapers. it’s jarring, but also kind of fascinating.
Someone told me that the locals call it ‘the city of apples’ - apparently, the area used to be a major apple-growing region. i didn’t see a ton of apple orchards, but i did stumble across a fantastic market.
Here's a quick rundown of what I hauled back:
Dried Apricots: Seriously, buy a kilo. You won’t regret it.
*Local Honey: Thick, dark, and tastes like wildflowers.
*Walnuts: Huge and ridiculously cheap.
*A weird fermented milk drink: Don't ask. Just try it. (I'm still not sure if I liked it.)
I spent a good chunk of time in Panfilov Park. It’s a surprisingly peaceful oasis in the middle of all the hustle. The Zenkov Cathedral is insane - built entirely of wood without a single nail. Seriously, how? I’m still trying to wrap my head around it.
I overheard some drunk guys arguing about the best place to get beshbarmak (the national dish - boiled meat with noodles). Apparently, Navat Restaurant is the gold standard, but it’s touristy. They were recommending some hole-in-the-wall place near the Central Mosque, but couldn’t remember the name. Typical.
“Nah, Navat’s for the tourists. Go to that place on Zhetysu, you know, the one with the grumpy old lady? Best beshbarmak in the city, guaranteed.”
I tried to find it, but no luck. I ended up at a place called Zheti Kazyna (check it out on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298435-d1234567-Reviews-Zheti_Kazyna-Almaty_Almaty_Province.html). It was…fine. Not life-changing, but definitely edible.
I also spent an afternoon wandering around Kok Tobe, the hill overlooking the city. You can take a cable car up - the views are incredible. There’s a Ferris wheel and a bunch of other touristy stuff up there, but the scenery is worth it. I found a little cafe with amazing views. Yelp has some decent reviews: https://www.yelp.com/biz/kok-tobe-almaty
If you get bored, Taldy-Kurgan and Shymkent are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it to either, but I heard they’re worth a visit.
Honestly, almaty is a bit of a mess. But it’s my kind of mess. It’s got grit, it’s got history, and it’s got some seriously stunning scenery. I’d go back in a heartbeat. Just maybe not in November.
Pro-tip: learn a few basic Russian phrases. While Kazakh is the official language, Russian is still widely spoken. It’ll make your life so* much easier. Also, download Yandex Maps. Google Maps is… unreliable, to say the least. Check out some local forums for more tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/almaty-211.html
Okay, i’m off to find some coffee. This sleep deprivation is hitting hard.
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