Kazakhstan's Chill: Almaty & the Deep Freeze (Seriously)

okay, so almaty. it’s…different. i wasn’t expecting it to hit this hard, honestly. i mean, i knew it was winter, but i just checked and it’s feeling like a solid ice age right now, hope you’re prepared for that sort of thing. the thermometer says -12.97 celsius, but it feels like -19.97. which, let me tell you, is a whole other level of cold. my fingers are currently protesting this blog post.

i’m a freelance photographer, and i usually chase light, but here? it’s all about embracing the grey. and the layers. so. many. layers. i’ve been wandering around, trying to capture the city’s vibe, and it’s…stark. beautiful, but stark. the architecture is a weird mix of soviet-era concrete and surprisingly modern glass buildings. it’s like the city is having an identity crisis, which, honestly, i relate to.

i spent yesterday trying to find decent coffee. it’s a struggle, let me tell you. i’m a bit of a *coffee snob, okay? i need my fix. i ended up at a place called “Coffee Break” (you can find some reviews on Yelp), and it was…fine. not life-changing, but it warmed my hands, which was a win. someone told me that there’s a hidden gem near Panfilov Park, but you have to know the barista’s cousin to get the good stuff. apparently, it’s a whole thing.

the people here are…reserved. not unfriendly, just…observant. i’ve been trying to learn a few basic phrases in kazakh, which mostly results in confused stares and polite smiles. i overheard someone at the bazaar saying that tourists who attempt kazakh get extra discounts. i haven’t tested this theory yet, but i plan to.

i’ve been staying in an airbnb near the zenkov cathedral. it’s a gorgeous, brightly colored wooden church, which feels wildly out of place in the middle of everything else. my host, a lovely woman named aizada, keeps offering me tea and homemade pastries. she warned me about pickpockets in the metro, so i’ve been keeping my camera bag extra close. she also said that the best place to get beshbarmak (the national dish) is at a tiny restaurant called “Gakku” - apparently, it’s a local secret. you can check out more about local cuisine on TripAdvisor.

the air pressure is 1036, humidity is 82%, and the ground level is 968. i don’t know why i’m telling you this, it just feels…important. maybe it’s the cold getting to my brain.

if you get bored, bishkek and other cities are just a short bus ride away. i’m thinking about taking a day trip to the mountains, but honestly, the thought of venturing further into the cold is slightly terrifying. i heard from a fellow traveler that the ski resorts are amazing, but you need to haggle aggressively for lift tickets. apparently, the vendors inflate the prices for tourists. you can find more information about the ski resorts on Visit Kazakhstan.

i’m starting to think i packed the wrong shoes. and maybe the wrong everything. but hey, that’s part of the adventure, right? i’m also checking out The Almaty Guide for some more local tips. i’ll keep you updated, assuming my fingers don’t completely freeze off. send hot chocolate*.