Kazan, Russia: Where the Wind Bites and the Pelmeni are Divine
okay, so. kazan. i didn’t really know what to expect, honestly. i just saw a cheap flight and thought, ‘why not?’ and here i am, shivering like a chihuahua in a blizzard. i just checked and it’s…a proper frost, the kind that makes your eyelashes feel like tiny icicles. hope you like that kind of thing.
I’m a touring session drummer, you see. My life is a whirlwind of airports and dodgy hotel rooms, so a bit of cold doesn’t exactly phase me. But this…this is different. It’s a damp, bone-chilling cold that seeps into your soul. I’m pretty sure my fingers are permanently numb. Still, the city itself? It’s…interesting. A real mix of cultures, which is what drew me in. You’ve got the Tatar influence everywhere - the architecture, the food, the general vibe. It’s not like anywhere else i’ve been.
Let’s talk food. Pelmeni. Oh. My. God. I’ve eaten a lot of pelmeni. Seriously, I think I’m 50% pelmeni at this point. I found this tiny place, tucked away down a side street - it’s not on TripAdvisor, which is always a good sign. It’s called ‘Babushka’s Kitchen’ (probably not the real name, my Russian is…limited). Someone told me that the best pelmeni are always made by grandmothers, and they were right. They were incredible. Seriously, go find some. You won’t regret it. Check out this local food board for more ideas: https://www.kazanfood.ru/
I spent a good chunk of my time wandering around *Bauman Street, the main drag. It’s touristy, sure, but it’s also got a lot of character. Lots of shops selling traditional Tatar crafts - hats, scarves, little wooden figurines. I bought a ridiculously oversized Ushanka hat. Don’t judge me. It’s warm. I also stumbled upon this amazing little cafe that served the strongest coffee i’ve ever had. I’m talking, like, could-power-a-small-city strong. I’m pretty sure it was laced with something. I’m not complaining.
“Apparently, the Kul Sharif Mosque is haunted. Some locals say you can hear chanting late at night, even when it’s closed.”
Speaking of locals, they’re…reserved. Not unfriendly, just…quiet. I tried to strike up a conversation with a guy selling sunflower seeds on the street, but he just shrugged and pointed to his seeds. Fair enough. If you get bored, Nizhny Novgorod and Ufa are just a short drive away. I might check them out next week, depending on how much longer my gig here lasts.
I overheard some drunk advice in a bar last night - apparently, you have to try the chak-chak. It’s a kind of honey cake, and it’s…intense. Very sweet. Very sticky. But apparently, it’s a Kazan tradition. I’m still on the fence about that one. I’m not sure my teeth can handle it. You can find reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/chak-chak-kzn
“Don’t trust the taxi drivers. They’ll rip you off if they can.”
Okay, quick pro-tips for anyone thinking of visiting:
*Layers, layers, layers. Seriously. You’ll need them.
*Learn a few basic Russian phrases. It’ll go a long way.
*Embrace the pelmeni. Just do it.
*Be prepared for the cold. Like, really cold.
*Check out the Kazan Kremlin.* It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s pretty impressive, even in the snow. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/684/
Honestly, Kazan is a bit of a surprise. It’s not the prettiest city in the world, and it’s definitely not warm, but it’s got a certain…charm. A gritty, resilient charm. And the pelmeni. Don’t forget the pelmeni. I’m already planning my return trip. Maybe in the summer, though. Definitely in the summer. I need to thaw out first. I’m also looking at some local music venues, maybe I can catch a gig while I’m here. Check out this local events board: https://kzn.ru/47441/
“The weather here is unpredictable. One minute it’s snowing, the next it’s…still snowing, but colder.”
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