Kharkiv: Frostbite & Babushkas (and a surprisingly good pierogi)

okay, so kharkiv. it wasn’t…on the list, you know? like, top ten cities to accidentally end up in when your train gets rerouted because of a rogue badger on the tracks (long story). but here i am. and honestly? it’s kinda growing on me.

first off, the weather. i just glanced at my phone and it’s…actively trying to freeze your eyeballs. seriously. the official numbers say 0.31 celsius, feels like -1.8, and the air is so crisp it’s practically shattering. it’s the kind of cold that makes you question all your life choices, especially the one involving a career as a touring session drummer and a complete lack of sensible winter clothing.

my hotel (if you can call it that - more like a very enthusiastic grandma’s spare room) is near *freedom square, which is…big. really big. and full of pigeons. like, an unsettling amount of pigeons. i tried to get a decent photo, but they all just stared at me with judgement.

someone told me that the best borscht in the city is made by a woman named olena who runs a tiny stall near the metro station. apparently, she guards the recipe with her life and will glare at anyone who asks for the secret ingredient.

getting around is…an experience. the metro is surprisingly efficient, though the announcements are entirely in ukrainian, which, let’s be real, sounds like a beautiful but incredibly complex argument. i’ve mostly been relying on pointing and hoping for the best. it’s worked so far. mostly.

food-wise, it’s been a revelation. i stumbled into this little place - i think it was called “Babushka’s Kitchen” (again, my ukrainian is…developing) - and had the most incredible pierogi of my life. seriously. fluffy, savory, and drowning in sour cream. i’m pretty sure i’ve found my new food group. you can find some reviews on Yelp.

and the people! oh, the people. they’re…intense. in a good way. very direct. very curious. and they all seem to be carrying bags of potatoes. i’m not sure what that’s about, but i’m not asking questions. if you get bored, poltava and dnipro are just a short train ride away.

i overheard some guys at a bar arguing about the best place to buy vintage military surplus. apparently, it’s a serious business. one of them claimed to have found a genuine soviet-era helmet for next to nothing.

someone warned me about pickpockets around the university, so i’ve been keeping a close eye on my wallet (and my drumsticks, because those are irreplaceable). i also heard that the gorky park* is beautiful, but maybe not so much when it’s actively trying to freeze your extremities off. check out TripAdvisor for more info.

honestly, kharkiv is a bit rough around the edges. it’s not polished or touristy. it’s just…real. and i’m kinda digging it. i’m thinking of checking out the Kharkiv National Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre tomorrow, if i can find a hat that adequately protects me from the arctic blast. and maybe another plate of those pierogi. definitely another plate of those pierogi. you can find more about the city on Lonely Planet.