Khulna: Dust, Tea, and a Whole Lot of Questions

okay, so khulna. it’s…a lot. i wasn’t really planning on khulna, honestly. it was a last-minute detour after a gig in *Dhaka fell through. the drummer before me, apparently, had a disagreement with a particularly enthusiastic fan and, well, let’s just say the venue wasn’t keen on another stick-wielding foreigner.

first impressions? warm. really warm. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty degrees, but it feels like someone’s constantly aiming a hairdryer at your face. the humidity is…present. like a damp hug you didn’t ask for. the air pressure feels normal, thankfully, no weird popping ears or anything. i’m a session drummer, not an astronaut.

spent most of yesterday wandering around, trying to get my bearings. the streets are… chaotic, in the best way. motorbikes weaving through traffic, vendors shouting, the smell of spices and something vaguely floral. it’s sensory overload, but i’m kinda into it. i found this amazing little tea stall near the railway station - seriously, the chai is life-changing.

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“apparently, the best biryani in khulna is from that place near the clock tower, but you have to get there before noon or it’s all gone. and don’t ask about the chicken, just eat it.”
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that’s what the guy at the tea stall told me, anyway. i haven’t tried it yet, but i’m willing to risk it. i’m always up for a good biryani. i’ve been checking out TripAdvisor (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g319568-Khulna_Division-Vacations.html) and Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Khulna%2C%20Bangladesh) to see what other culinary adventures await.

my hotel is…basic. let’s just say it’s seen better days. but it’s clean enough, and the fan is a lifesaver. the neighbors are pretty chill, mostly just curious about the foreigner with the drumsticks. if you get restless, Mongla and Bagerhat are just a short boat ride away, apparently. i overheard someone saying Bagerhat has some incredible mosques. might check that out tomorrow.

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“don’t trust the rickshaw drivers. they’ll take you the long way around every time. negotiate hard.”
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that was a warning from a local artist i met near the riverfront. he was painting these amazing murals, really vibrant stuff. he also recommended checking out the local markets - apparently, they’re a treasure trove of weird and wonderful things. i’m thinking of picking up some fabric for my girlfriend; she’s a seamstress and loves unique textiles. you can find some local art here: https://www.bdartists.com/.

someone told me that the Sundarbans* are a must-see, but you need to go with a reputable tour operator. apparently, there are tigers. big tigers. i’m not sure my drumming skills would be much use against a tiger. i’ve been looking at some tours on GetYourGuide (https://www.getyourguide.com/khulna-l2211/).

honestly, khulna is growing on me. it’s rough around the edges, a little bit chaotic, but it’s real. it’s not trying to be anything it’s not. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m gonna go find that biryani now. wish me luck. and maybe send some air conditioning.