Kigali's Got a Pulse (and a Whole Lot of Humidity)
okay, so. kigali. i’m still processing, honestly. i just got back and my brain feels like a tangled ethernet cable. 158597 and 1834043034… those numbers keep popping up. no idea what they mean, probably some local code or something. i’ll figure it out later, maybe. right now, i need coffee. strong coffee.
it’s…sticky. like, permanently. i just checked and it’s hovering around 17 degrees celsius, but the humidity is insane - 97%. feels like you’re wrapped in a damp towel all day. not complaining, exactly. it’s…different. i’m used to dry heat, so this was a bit of a shock to the system.
and the people! everyone’s so friendly, genuinely. i spent a good hour just chatting with a woman selling avocados at the market. she gave me the best advice about navigating the bus system. apparently, you just yell out where you want to go and someone will tell you which bus to hop on. genius, really. check out some reviews on TripAdvisor if you're planning a trip: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298323-Kigali_Province-Vacations.html.
“Don’t trust the street food vendors near the stadium. I swear, my stomach hasn’t been the same since.”
that was overheard at a cafe, by the way. a very dramatic, very pale tourist. i tried some street food, and i’m still here, so…your mileage may vary. i did find this amazing little restaurant called Heaven Restaurant & Bowling. Yelp says it’s a hit: https://www.yelp.com/biz/heaven-restaurant-bowling-kigali. Bowling and Rwandan food? what’s not to love?
if you get bored, musanze and ruhengeri are just a short drive away - apparently, they’re the gateway to gorilla trekking. i didn’t have time this trip, but it’s definitely on the list for next time. i’m already dreaming of misty mountains and…well, gorillas.
“The traffic is…an experience. Just embrace the chaos.”
seriously. the traffic is something else. scooters, buses, cars, people…all vying for space on the road. it’s organized chaos, though. somehow, it all works. i spent a lot of time just watching people go by. there’s a real energy to the city, a sense of…hope, maybe? it’s hard to explain.
okay, quick pro-tips, because i feel like i should be giving pro-tips. i’m a touring session drummer, so my travel style is all about efficiency and adaptability.
Power Adapter: you’ll need a type c or f adapter. don’t forget it. seriously.
*Cash is King: credit cards aren’t widely accepted. get some Rwandan francs.
*Bargain Hard: at the markets, definitely haggle. it’s expected.
*Learn a Few Phrases: even just “hello” and “thank you” go a long way.
*Be Prepared for Rain:* even if it’s not raining when you arrive, it probably will be at some point.
“The Genocide Memorial is…intense. But you need to go. It’s important.”
that’s the honest truth. it’s a sobering experience, but it’s also incredibly moving. it’s a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit. i spent a whole afternoon there, just…thinking. you can find more information on their website: https://www.kigalimemorialcentre.rw/.
i also stumbled upon this really cool art collective called Ivuka Arts. they have a gallery and a workshop where they teach traditional Rwandan crafts. i bought a beautiful basket - it’s now hanging on my wall, a reminder of this crazy, wonderful trip. check out their page on Facebook for more info: https://www.facebook.com/IvukaArts/.
and one last thing: someone told me that the sunsets in kigali are legendary. they weren’t wrong. seriously, find a rooftop bar and watch the sky explode with color. you won’t regret it.
okay, i’m officially exhausted. time for that coffee. and maybe a nap. kigali, you were…a lot. but i’m glad i went.
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