Kochi Heatstroke & The Spice Market Whispers

okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in *Kochi, India. like, everything. i just checked and it’s…a solid wall of heat right now, honestly. feels like walking into a hairdryer. the weather app says thirty-one point two degrees, but ‘feels like’ twenty-nine point one three? who even does that calculation? it’s hot. just…hot. the air pressure is doing something, apparently, one thousand and seven, and the humidity is sixteen, which explains why my hair is actively plotting against me.

I’m a freelance photographer, and I thought I was prepared. I really did. I’ve shot in Morocco, Thailand, even a surprisingly humid Iceland (don’t ask). But Kochi… Kochi is a different beast. It’s not just the heat, it’s the density of everything. The smells, the sounds, the sheer number of people. It’s overwhelming in the best possible way, but also makes you want to find a dark, air-conditioned room and just…exist.

I’ve been spending most of my time wandering around Fort Kochi, trying to capture the light on the Chinese fishing nets. They’re iconic, obviously, but getting a shot that doesn’t look like every other postcard is proving…challenging. I overheard someone at a tea stall - a really grumpy old man with a magnificent mustache - complaining that all the tourists just take the same picture and then leave. He said, and I quote, “They don’t see Kochi, they just photograph Kochi!” which, honestly, felt a little too close to home.

Speaking of tea stalls, the chai here is incredible. Seriously. I found this tiny place near the Mattancherry Palace (definitely worth a visit, check out the murals: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g304559-d188492-Reviews-Mattancherry_Palace-Kochi_Kerala.html) and the guy makes it with like, a secret blend of spices. It’s the only thing keeping me from melting into a puddle.

I’ve been trying to get some street photography done in the spice market, but it’s a chaotic ballet of vendors, shoppers, and scooters. It’s amazing, but also terrifying. Someone warned me - and this is where the “drunk advice” part comes in - that you need to be very careful with your gear. Apparently, pickpockets are a thing. They said, “Keep your camera strapped to your soul, or it’ll disappear faster than a free sample at a wedding.”

I’m staying in this little guesthouse in Jew Town. It’s basic, but clean, and the owner, Mrs. Abraham, is an absolute sweetheart. She keeps offering me homemade banana chips, which I’m trying to politely decline because I’m pretty sure I’m already 80% banana chip at this point. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, check out reviews on Yelp. I haven’t tried Airbnb yet, but I’ve heard good things.

I spent yesterday exploring the backwaters. It was…peaceful. A welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the city. I took a houseboat tour (a bit touristy, I admit, but worth it for the views). You can find some options here: https://www.keralatourism.org/houseboats/. Apparently, some of the boat operators try to rip you off, so haggle hard! Someone told me they tried to charge a guy extra for breathing.

My neighbors are…loud. In a good way, mostly. Lots of music, lots of chatter. It’s a constant hum of life. If you get bored, Munnar is just a short drive away, famous for its tea plantations. I’m thinking of heading there next, if I can survive another day in this heat. I’ve also heard good things about Alleppey* (https://www.keralatourism.org/alleppey/), another backwater destination.

Honestly, Kochi is exhausting and exhilarating all at once. It’s a place that gets under your skin, even if it’s just from the sweat. I’m not sure I’ve even scratched the surface yet, but I’m determined to keep exploring. And drinking chai. Lots and lots of chai.