Kochi, Kerala: Where the Humidity Hugs You and the Fish Smell is...Charming?

okay, so. kochi. kerala. i’m still peeling the salt off my skin, honestly. i just checked and it’s a damp blanket draped over everything right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s…sticky. delightfully so, in a way that makes you question every life choice you’ve ever made but also want to eat a mango.

I’m a touring session drummer, you see. Been bouncing around for, like, fifteen years. Usually, it’s sterile hotel rooms and soundchecks. This? This is…different. My band cancelled a gig in Berlin (long story involving a rogue schnitzel and a very angry sound engineer) and I figured, why not? I’d always wanted to see Kerala. Plus, the flight was cheap. Very cheap. Which, as a drummer who mostly lives on instant noodles and the kindness of venue owners, is a major win.

Fort Kochi is…a vibe. A chaotic, beautiful, slightly overwhelming vibe. The Chinese fishing nets are iconic, obviously. Everyone takes pictures of them. But standing under them, feeling the spray of the Arabian Sea, hearing the shouts of the fishermen…that’s something else. I spent a good hour just watching them work, trying to figure out the rhythm of it all. It’s a different kind of beat than I’m used to, slower, more deliberate.

I stumbled into this tiny cafe, “Malabar Moments” (check it out on TripAdvisor), and had the best masala chai of my life. Seriously. The owner, a woman named Priya, was amazing. She told me all about the local festivals and the best places to see Kathakali performances. Apparently, there’s a really good one at the Kerala Kathakali Centre. I’m thinking of going tomorrow.

Someone told me that the spice markets are a tourist trap, but I don’t care. I bought a ridiculous amount of cardamom and turmeric. My apartment back home is going to smell amazing (or maybe like a curry explosion, who knows). I also got a hand-painted kathakali mask. It’s…intense.

“Don’t eat the street food after 10 pm,” a very serious-looking man warned me, clutching a newspaper. “Trust me. You’ll regret it.”

I’m taking that advice. Mostly. I did have some fried banana at midnight. It was fine. So far.

I’ve been wandering around Mattancherry, the Jewish Quarter. It’s fascinating. The Paradesi Synagogue is beautiful, even if it’s a bit…quiet. I found this incredible vintage shop, “Threads of Time” (you can find them on Yelp), crammed with old sarees and faded photographs. I snagged a gorgeous silk scarf for like, five bucks. Score!

If you get bored, Alleppey and Munnar are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of heading to Alleppey for a houseboat trip next week. Apparently, it’s magical. I found a few options on Kerala Tourism.

I overheard some drunk tourists complaining about the humidity. Honestly, get over it. It’s part of the charm. Embrace the sweat. Embrace the fish smell. Embrace the chaos. Kochi is…an experience. A messy, beautiful, unforgettable experience. And I wouldn’t trade it for anything (except maybe a really good air conditioner).

Oh, and one more thing: I heard that the best place to get fresh seafood is at the Harbour City Market. Apparently, you have to go early, like, really early. But it’s worth it. Just…be prepared to haggle.