Kochi, Kerala: Where the Rain Smells Like Spices and My Busking Dreams Are Slightly Damp
okay, so. kochi. i’m still kind of buzzing, honestly. i’ve been busking around *Fort Kochi for, like, a week now, and it’s… something. i’m a DIY busker, remember? That’s my persona. It’s less ‘polished performance’ and more ‘see what sticks’ which, surprisingly, has been working out. Mostly.
I just checked and the air feels like a damp hug right now. Seriously, it’s clinging to everything. The temperature’s hovering around fourteen degrees, feels like thirteen, and the humidity is… well, let’s just say my guitar strings are perpetually sticky. Pressure’s at 1014, which means… something about the weather? I don’t know, I’m not a meteorologist. I’m a guy with a ukulele and a questionable sense of rhythm.
I’m staying in a tiny guesthouse near the Chinese Fishing Nets. It’s… rustic. Let’s go with rustic. The owner, a lovely woman named Priya, keeps offering me chai and telling me stories about her grandkids. It’s sweet, but sometimes I just need to escape the constant flow of sugar and well-meaning inquiries about my life choices. I found a decent place to grab some food on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/oceanos-restaurant-kochi. It’s got good reviews, apparently.
Speaking of reviews, someone told me that the fish curry at that place is amazing, but only if you ask for it “extra fiery.” Apparently, the menu description is a lie. Drunk advice, probably, but I’m willing to risk it.
I’ve been trying to learn some Malayalam phrases. It’s… challenging. “Nanni” means “no,” which is surprisingly useful when people try to hand you random flowers or offer you rickshaw rides at exorbitant prices. I’m also attempting to master “dhanyavaad,” which means “thank you.” It feels like a victory every time I manage to pronounce it correctly.
“Apparently, the best place to get hand-painted kathakali masks is down a tiny alleyway off Jew Town. But you have to go early, before the tourists descend like locusts.”
I spent a morning wandering around Jew Town. It’s a maze of narrow streets crammed with antique shops, spice stalls, and textile vendors. I almost bought a ridiculously ornate elephant statue, but then I remembered I’m traveling with a ukulele and a backpack. Priorities, people.
If you get bored, Munnar and Alleppey are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of taking a day trip to Alleppey to check out the backwaters. Apparently, it’s stunning. I found a few tour options on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g297632-Activities-Alleppey_Kerala.html.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘authentic’ Ayurvedic massages on the street. It’s probably just a room with a questionable mattress and a very enthusiastic masseuse.”
I’ve been trying to incorporate some local instruments into my busking set. I managed to borrow a tabla from a friendly shopkeeper. It’s a bit out of tune, but it adds a certain… je ne sais quoi. I’m also experimenting with incorporating some Malayalam folk melodies. It’s a work in progress, to say the least. I’m hoping to eventually record some of my songs. Maybe put them on Bandcamp? https://bandcamp.com/
I overheard a local warning someone about the mosquitos near the Mattancherry Palace*. Apparently, they’re vicious. I’m definitely bringing extra bug spray.
Honestly, kochi is a sensory overload in the best possible way. The smells of spices, the sounds of the waves, the vibrant colors… it’s all a bit overwhelming, but in a good way. It’s definitely not a place for people who like things quiet and predictable. It’s a place for people who are willing to embrace the chaos and get a little bit lost.
And, you know, maybe buy a ridiculously ornate elephant statue.