Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. i landed in kochi yesterday - kerala, india - and honestly, it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, humid, slightly unsettling ‘a lot’. the air smells like spices and something vaguely metallic, which i’m starting to think is the shipyards. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the temp is 22.99, feels like 23.46, min 22.99, max 22.99, pressure 1010, humidity 81, sea level 1010, ground level 1008. it’s a weird combo, you know? like, almost aggressively pleasant, but with this underlying current of… well, history.

my hotel - the ‘pearl’ - is basically a giant, slightly crumbling colonial building. it’s charming in a ‘i’m-about-to-collapse-at-any-moment’ kind of way. the wifi is patchy, which is a godsend, actually. i need to disconnect, i think. i’m trying to capture the light here, you know? the way it hits the old stone walls, the reflections in the backwaters… it’s intense.

i spent the morning wandering around fort kochi, which is seriously impressive. it’s a tangled mess of Portuguese, Dutch, and British fortifications - each section feels like a different era. someone told me that the Dutch used to keep a massive collection of spices here, which makes sense considering the area. i checked out Yelp for some decent seafood, and found this place called ‘pearls of kochi’ - looks promising.

and the fish! oh my god, the fish. i went to the local market this afternoon, and it was… an experience. there were these huge, iridescent fish - i think they were some kind of mackerel - piled high on ice. and the smell! it was overwhelming, but also strangely captivating. i overheard a local fisherman saying something about ‘devil fish’ - apparently, they’re considered a delicacy, but they’re also notoriously difficult to catch. i’m not sure i’m brave enough to try one.

i’m trying to get some shots of the kathakali performances - traditional kerala dance - but it’s hard to capture the energy. it’s so vibrant, so intense. i’m aiming for something raw, something real. i need to find a good street photographer to collaborate with, maybe.

i’m also trying to track down some vintage saris. i’m obsessed with finding unique pieces, you know? something with a story. i’m hoping to find a good dealer in fort kochi. i heard that there’s a guy who specializes in antique textiles - he’s apparently a bit of a recluse, but his collection is legendary. i’m going to try to find him tomorrow.

my neighbors are mostly families - lots of kids running around, the constant chatter of malayalam. if you get bored, [kochi] is just a short drive away, there’s a really cool spice plantation about an hour outside the city. i’m thinking of checking it out on sunday. i heard that the tea is amazing.

someone told me that the best way to experience kochi is to just get lost. to wander the backstreets, to talk to the locals, to eat whatever you find. i’m trying to embrace that philosophy. it’s working so far.

i’m seriously considering buying a small, rusty bicycle. it would be perfect for exploring the city. i need something reliable, something that can handle the hills. i’m looking at a few options on TripAdvisor.

i’m starting to feel like i’m actually seeing this place, not just documenting it. it’s a weird feeling, but a good one. i just need to find a decent cup of coffee. seriously, the coffee here is… an adventure.

i’m going to head out and explore. wish me luck. and maybe send caffeine.