Kolomea Diaries: A Frozen Morning and Unexpected Warmth
the air was thick with moisture when i stepped outside, my breath hanging in front of me like a ghost. the weather app said -6.74°C but it felt like -10.49°C, and honestly, it wasn't lying. humidity at 96%? yeah, that tracks. my fingers were already numb by the time i made it to the main square. someone told me that the locals call this 'the breath-stealer weather' and now i get why. it's not just cold-it's wet, biting cold that seeps into your bones before you even realize what's happening.
i'd been wandering around kolomea for a few days now, trying to get a feel for the place. the buildings here have that worn-but-loved look, like they've seen a hundred winters and still stand proud. i overheard a group of teenagers talking about the best pierogi spot in town-apparently it's this tiny place called *kryjivka that looks more like someone's basement than a restaurant. i'll have to check it out before i leave.
"you haven't really been to kolomea unless you've walked along the prut river at sunrise," a woman told me at a cafe. "even when it's this cold, there's something magical about it."
turns out she was right. i dragged myself out of bed at 6am (not my finest decision-making moment) and made my way to the river. the water was this eerie, misty gray, and the whole scene felt like something out of a dream. or a horror movie. depends on your perspective, i guess.
if you get bored, ivano-frankivsk and Chernivtsi are just a short drive away, though honestly, i'm not sure why you'd want to leave. kolomea has this quiet charm that's hard to find elsewhere. it's not trying to be anything other than itself, and i respect that.
i just checked and it's still -6.74°C* there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. if you're planning a trip, layer up. like, triple-layer-up. and maybe invest in some hand warmers. trust me on this one.
for more on ukraine's hidden gems, check out this guide or this local blog. and if you're feeling adventurous, tripadvisor has some solid reviews on kolomea's lesser-known spots.