Kraków & The Chill That Settled In My Bones (and My Gear)
okay, so kraków. it wasn't on the 'plan', you know? i was supposed to be chasing sunlight in lisbon, but a busted amp and a seriously questionable airline ticket deal rerouted me. honestly? no regrets.
first off, the air. it’s… insistent. i just checked and it’s clinging to everything, like a damp wool blanket. the numbers said something about -1.43 celsius ‘feels like’ and 88% humidity. yeah, that tracks. it’s the kind of cold that seeps into your bones and makes you question all your life choices, especially the one where you decided to tour with a vintage drum kit.
my hotel (if you can call it that - more like a very enthusiastic hostel) is near the *main square, and the walls are paper thin. i swear i can hear old man janusz arguing with his pigeons at 6am. if you’re looking for peace and quiet, maybe check out some options further out - TripAdvisor has a decent list.
gear-wise, i was not prepared. i thought ‘eastern europe in october’ meant ‘crisp autumn air’. it means ‘arctic blast with a side of drizzle’. here’s what i’m currently regretting not bringing:
*Thermal underwear: seriously, don’t skimp. your thighs will thank you.
*Waterproof everything: boots, jacket, bag… everything.
*A hat that covers your ears: because frostbite is not a good look.
*Hand warmers: those little disposable ones? lifesavers.
*A portable heater: okay, maybe i’m exaggerating… but almost.
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"apparently, that pierogi place on ulica floriańska is a tourist trap. someone told me they use pre-made dough. pre-made dough! the audacity!"
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so, the food. i’ve been living on pierogi and zapiekanka (basically an open-faced baguette pizza). i overheard someone at the bar saying the best zapiekanka is from a guy near the cloth hall, but i haven’t tracked him down yet. i’m also trying to find a decent coffee shop. i’m a bit of a snob, i admit it. Yelp has a few suggestions, but i’m skeptical.
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"my cousin’s friend, who’s a tour guide, said you have to be careful with the taxis. they’ll take the long way around if you’re not paying attention."
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the people here are… stoic. not unfriendly, just… reserved. they’ve seen things, you know? centuries of history etched into their faces. it’s a good reminder that my little amp drama is not, in fact, the end of the world. if you get bored, warsaw and wrocław* are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of heading to wrocław next, maybe.
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"don’t go down those alleyways at night, especially near kazimierz. apparently, there’s a guy who dresses up as a vampire and tries to sell you fake amber."
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overall? kraków is… complicated. it’s beautiful and bleak, charming and chaotic. it’s a city that demands your attention, and it doesn’t really care if you give it or not. i’m starting to think that’s what i like about it. check out Culture.pl for more info. and seriously, pack a hat.