Kraków's Air is a Joke, But the City is Worth It

so i landed in kraków thinking i'd be fine, you know? i'm from a city, i can handle smog. but this was next level. the air here in winter is like breathing through a wet sock someone's been wearing for a week. locals told me it's the coal heating, the cars, the geography trapping it all in a bowl. i checked the aqicn.org and some days it's hitting 150+ aqi, which is basically "don't go outside unless you want to taste metal." i brought my n95 masks, and honestly, they became my best friends. the data doesn't lie: kraków's air quality is consistently worse than warsaw or wrocław, especially in january and february.

but here's the thing: kraków is still magic. the old town is ridiculously beautiful, like walking through a postcard that smells faintly of coal smoke. i stayed near kazimierz, the old jewish quarter, and every morning i'd walk past synagogues and street art while trying not to cough up a lung. the locals? they're not oblivious. there's a real push for change-electric buses, car bans in the center, and even subsidies for swapping out old heaters. it's slow, but it's happening.

i talked to a barista at a tiny café (check out krakowcafes.com for the best spots) who said, "we just adapt. you get used to checking the air app before you open the window." another friend, a marathon runner, told me he runs along the vistula river early in the morning when the smog hasn't settled yet-smart move. if you're planning to visit, bring a good mask, download an air quality app, and maybe plan your outdoor stuff for midday or after rain when the air's a bit clearer.

here's a quick gear list for surviving kraków's air:
- n95 or ffp2 masks (seriously, don't skimp)
- portable air purifier for your room (trust me)
- air quality app (aqicn.org is solid)
- a sense of humor (you'll need it)

and if you're wondering about the rest of poland, kraków is just a short train ride from other cool cities like wrocław or katowice. the country's got a lot going for it, even if the air in this one city needs work.

anyway, i'm still here, still coughing a little, but also still in love with the place. just don't forget that mask.

links for the curious:
- aqicn.org/kraków
- krakowcafes.com
- reddit.com/r/krakow
- tripadvisor.com/krakow

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