Kraków's Air is a Mess But the City's Still Worth It
look, kraków's got this reputation for being one of the most polluted cities in europe and honestly? it's not wrong. winter here feels like breathing through a wet sock left in a coal stove. the numbers back it up too-PM2.5 levels regularly spike above WHO guidelines, sometimes hitting 150 μg/m³ in january. that's like chain-smoking without the nicotine buzz. but here's the thing: the city's not giving up. they've rolled out low-emission zones, banned old cars in the center, and pushed district heating upgrades. it's slow progress but it's happening.
living here as a freelance photographer means i'm outside a lot-chasing light, dodging pigeons, and yes, coughing through smog. rent's surprisingly chill though. you can snag a decent one-bedroom in kazimierz for about 2,500 złoty a month ($650ish). safety-wise, kraków's chill; i've wandered back from late gigs with gear and never felt sketched out. jobs? creative gigs are popping up, especially in digital media and tourism. check out creative kraków jobs board if you're hunting.
weather's a mood. winters are brutal-grey, damp, and thick with smog. summers? suddenly everyone's outside, masks off, soaking up the rare sunshine. nearby gems like wrocław and zakopane are just a short train ride away if you need a breather from the city haze.
overheard at a café: "i wear my mask more for the air than covid now." another local warned me, "don't jog along the vistula before march unless you want black snot." harsh but fair.
if you're coming, bring an air purifier, download the airly app for real-time updates, and maybe a good scarf. kraków's rough around the edges but it's got soul-and a stubborn streak that might just clean up its act yet.
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