Kyoto’s Static: Rain, Ramen, and Really Weird Vibes
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and the faint hope of a decent night’s sleep. 6825489… seriously, what even is that number? it just keeps popping into my head. and 1392040772? don’t ask. i’m not touching it. it’s giving me anxiety. i landed in kyoto yesterday, and honestly, it’s… intense. the air feels thick, like wet wool. the humidity is clinging to everything - 63%, i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure’s at 1020, which is kinda low, feels like a gentle hug from the sky, but also unsettling. 995 sea level, which is just… normal, i guess?
i’m staying in this tiny guesthouse near *Gion, which is already a chaotic mess of tourists and geishas trying to look like they haven’t seen a camera in their lives. it’s beautiful, don’t get me wrong, but also… overwhelming. i needed a break, so i wandered into this little ramen shop. the guy behind the counter, he just stared at me, like i was a particularly interesting insect. i ordered the tonkotsu - extra broth, obviously - and it was… transcendent. seriously, the best ramen i’ve had in ages. i’m talking shimmering, milky, porky perfection.
someone told me that the best way to experience kyoto is to get lost. which, let’s be honest, is pretty much my default travel strategy. i spent the afternoon just wandering through Higashiyama, dodging mopeds and trying not to trip over ancient stone lanterns. it’s a maze, a beautiful, confusing maze. i stumbled upon this tiny pottery shop - the owner, a wizened old woman with surprisingly strong hands, was meticulously crafting a teacup. she didn’t speak much english, but she offered me a cup of matcha and a knowing smile.
i overheard gossip at a tiny izakaya last night - it was a group of salarymen, clearly fueled by sake and complaining about their bosses. they were saying that the Fushimi Inari Shrine is getting ridiculously crowded, like, shoulder-to-shoulder crowded. “you have to go early,” one of them slurred, “before the influencers descend.” ugh. i’m trying to avoid the influencers. i’m aiming for the quiet corners, the hidden temples, the places where you can actually feel the city’s pulse.
my gear list is a disaster, as usual. i’ve got my trusty camera (obviously), a ridiculously oversized backpack, a portable charger (essential), and a half-empty bottle of sunscreen. i also have this weird obsession with buying tiny ceramic frogs. don’t ask. it’s a thing.
i’m thinking of checking out Nijo Castle tomorrow - apparently, it’s got some seriously creepy shogun vibes. and maybe a sake tasting. definitely a sake tasting.
i heard that the best place to find vintage kimonos is in Teramachi Street. i’m on the hunt.
if you get bored, Osaka is just a short drive away. it’s a totally different vibe - more neon, more street food, more… everything. i’m thinking of hopping over for a day or two.
i’m also trying to find a decent coffee shop. the local coffee scene is… underwhelming, to be honest. i need a serious caffeine injection. i found one place that claims to use beans from Hachioji, which sounds promising. i’ll report back.
TripAdvisor says to book your Fushimi Inari tickets in advance. Yelp recommends trying the okonomiyaki at Kura* - but someone told me it’s touristy. i’m going to risk it.
i’m starting to think i need a nap. or maybe three. or twelve.