Lagos, Nigeria: Mosquitoes, Jollof, and a Whole Lotta Hustle
okay, so. lagos. where do i even begin? i’m still peeling the city off my skin, you know? like, the humidity clings to you, the noise vibrates in your bones, and the sheer energy… it’s something else. i’m a botanist, usually happiest surrounded by quiet ferns and the smell of damp earth, and this? this was… intense. but in a way i kinda loved.
I just checked and it's currently a swampy 27.88 degrees, feels like 32.25, and the air is thick enough to chew. Eighty-three percent humidity? Yeah, bring a towel. Seriously. And don’t even think about wearing anything you care about. It’ll be soaked.
I was here for a research project - some weird, fascinating thing about mangrove ecosystems and their resilience to pollution. It’s way more complicated than it sounds, involving a lot of mud, tiny crabs, and frustrated sighs. But the people… the people are what really stuck with me. Everyone’s hustling. Everyone’s got a side gig. Everyone’s trying to make something happen. It’s inspiring, honestly.
I stayed in Lekki, which was… well, it was expensive. But relatively quiet. If you get bored, Ibadan and Shagamu are just a short drive away - apparently, Ibadan has some amazing markets. I didn’t make it, sadly. Too much mangrove mud to deal with. I did spend a lot of time wandering around, trying to absorb the chaos. The traffic is… legendary. Seriously, just accept that you’ll be sitting in a car for a long time. Download some podcasts. Learn a few phrases in Yoruba. Just breathe.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ deal on electronics at Computer Village. It’s a trap, I tell you! A trap!”
That was drunk advice from a guy I met at a suya stand. He seemed to know what he was talking about. Computer Village is apparently a sprawling, chaotic marketplace for electronics. I steered clear. I’m not brave enough to haggle for a phone in that kind of environment.
Food-wise? Jollof rice is a must. Seriously. Find a place that looks busy, where the smoke is billowing, and order it. You won’t regret it. I also had some amazing pepper soup - spicy, flavorful, and perfect for cutting through the humidity. And the suya! Oh, the suya. Grilled, spiced meat skewers. Heaven. I found a great spot near my hotel - check out Yelp for recommendations, but honestly, just follow your nose.
Someone told me that the nightlife in Victoria Island is insane. Apparently, there are clubs that go until sunrise. I didn’t experience it myself - I was usually too exhausted from battling mosquitoes and analyzing plant samples. But I heard… things. Let’s just say it involves a lot of loud music and expensive champagne.
I did manage to visit the Nike Art Gallery. It’s incredible - a huge collection of contemporary Nigerian art. Definitely worth a visit. TripAdvisor has some good reviews.
“The drivers… they drive like they’re being chased by demons. Just close your eyes and pray.”
That was a warning from a local I met on the bus. He wasn’t kidding. The driving is… assertive. Let’s put it that way.
I also spent some time exploring the Freedom Park, a former colonial prison that’s been transformed into a cultural center. It’s a really interesting place, with a lot of history. Their website has more information.
*Pro-Tips for Lagos:
*Mosquito repellent: Seriously, buy the strongest stuff you can find. And wear long sleeves and pants, even when it’s hot.
*Bargaining: It’s expected. Don’t be afraid to haggle, but be respectful.
*Water: Drink bottled water only.
*Power: Power outages are common. Bring a portable charger.
*Transportation: Uber and Bolt are your friends. Avoid the danfos (public minibuses) unless you’re feeling really adventurous.
*Learn a few basic Yoruba phrases: It will go a long way.
*Be aware of your surroundings:* Lagos is a vibrant city, but it’s also a place where petty crime can happen. Keep your valuables close and be mindful of who’s around you.
Lagos isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s chaotic, overwhelming, and sometimes frustrating. But it’s also incredibly vibrant, full of life, and utterly unforgettable. I’d go back. Maybe. After a long, long shower.
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