Lagos State of Mind (and Sweat)

okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in Lagos. like, everything. i didn’t even realize humidity could be a physical presence until now. it’s… clinging. i just checked and it’s a solid thirty-one degrees, but feels like you’re standing next to a pizza oven. honestly, i’m starting to think my hair has a mind of its own.

i’m here scouting locations for a low-budget sci-fi film - yeah, i’m an *indie film scout, which basically means i get paid to wander around and look at interesting walls. the director wants “gritty realism,” and let me tell you, Lagos delivers. it’s… a lot. the energy is insane. it’s like a constant, beautiful, chaotic hum.

i was trying to find a decent place to grab some jollof rice yesterday, and ended up getting completely lost in Balogun Market. it’s… an experience. imagine every market you’ve ever been to, then multiply it by ten, add a healthy dose of bartering, and a whole lot of people. i swear i saw a man trying to sell a live goat.

someone told me that the best jollof is actually found at a tiny roadside stall near Obalende, but you have to ask for “Mama Rose” specifically. apparently, she’s legendary. i haven’t braved it yet, but it’s on the list. i also overheard someone complaining about the traffic on Third Mainland Bridge - apparently, it can take hours to cross during rush hour. TripAdvisor has some user tips on navigating Lagos traffic.

i’m staying in a little guesthouse in Yaba. the owner, a lovely woman named Fatima, keeps offering me more tea than i can possibly drink. she’s also given me a crash course in Lagos slang, which is… a lot to take in. apparently, “wahala” means trouble, and you’ll hear it approximately every five seconds.

i’ve been trying to get some decent shots for the film, but it’s hard when you’re constantly dodging motorcycles and trying not to melt into a puddle. the light is amazing though - really dramatic. i’ve been experimenting with long exposures to capture the movement of the city. Yelp has some reviews of local photography studios.

i heard from a driver that you absolutely have to haggle for everything. like, everything. even the price of water. he said they’ll start high just to see what you’ll pay.

the neighbors are pretty lively. if you get bored, Ibadan and Abeokuta are just a short bus ride away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to Lekki to check out the beaches, but i’ve heard they’re pretty crowded. This local forum has some discussions about Lagos beaches.

i tried to find a quiet coffee shop to write this, but apparently, “quiet” isn’t really a thing here. i ended up at a place blasting Afrobeats, which, honestly, isn’t the worst thing in the world. i’m starting to think i need to embrace the chaos.

someone warned me about pickpockets in Idumota*, so i’m keeping my camera bag extra close. apparently, it’s a hotspot for petty theft. i’m also trying to avoid drinking the tap water - i’ve heard stories.

apparently, the best way to get around is to use a “danfo” bus. but be prepared to squeeze in like a sardine. and don’t expect air conditioning.

i’m exhausted, sweaty, and slightly overwhelmed, but also… strangely exhilarated. Lagos is definitely not for the faint of heart, but it’s an experience i won’t soon forget. i’m off to find Mama Rose and her legendary jollof. wish me luck. Here's a guide to Lagos restaurants.