Leiden: Canals, Pilgrims, and a Whole Lot of Wind (Seriously)

okay, so i’m back from leiden. netherlands. and… wow. it’s… a lot. i’m still processing, honestly. i feel like i need a nap. and maybe a stroopwafel. speaking of which, the scent of those things is everywhere. apparently, it’s a ‘highlighted local scent’ - the data said that. who writes this stuff? anyway…

leiden is in south holland, which, okay, makes sense. it’s at the meeting point of two rhines - the oude rijn and the nieuwe rijn. sounds fancy, right? it’s… fine. the coordinates are 52°10′N 4°29′E. i don’t know why i’m telling you this, but the data insisted. it’s about 10 miles northeast of the hague and 5 miles inland from the north sea. so, you know, beachy-ish if you’re into that.

it’s got this history thing going on too. apparently, it started on an artificial hill called the burcht van leiden. the name comes from a germanic word meaning “canal.” very on brand. and get this - it was a big deal for the pilgrims! they hung out there before sailing to america on the mayflower. i mean, that’s… something. and it’s got a university, the oldest in the netherlands, founded way back in 1575. “city of science,” they call it. i guess that explains all the… serious people.

and the canals! oh, the canals. they’re everywhere. picturesque, apparently. tree-bordered quays, historic windmills, parks… it’s all very… curated. the hortus botanicus is supposed to be amazing - one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. i didn’t make it, i was too busy trying to avoid getting blown over by the wind.

speaking of the wind… i just checked and it’s… 18 mph on average. feels_like is 3.93 degrees celsius right now. yeah. hope you like that kind of thing. it’s a temperate maritime climate, which basically means it’s always a little damp and windy. and rainy. year-round precipitation, apparently. 82% humidity. ugh. the high is 22°c and the low is 2°c. i’m shivering just thinking about it.

if you get bored, oegstgeest, leiderdorp, voorschoten, and zoeterwoude are just a short drive away. and katwijk, teylingen, noordwijk, noordwijkerhout… it’s a whole agglomeration thing. the hague is 20km south, katwijk is a beach town (if you can brave the wind), and wassenar and warmond are in the “region of surprises.” i didn’t find it that surprising, to be honest.

major tourist attractions? hortus botanicus (again!), rijk museum van oudheden (antiquities museum), burcht van leiden, rapenburg canal… boat tours, pedestrian zones, historic windmills. the usual. someone told me that the rapenburg canal is really beautiful at night. i didn’t see it at night, i was hiding in my hotel room trying to stay warm.

and, of course, stroopwafels. i’ve already mentioned them, but they deserve another mention. they’re warm and sweet and… comforting. the population is 127,046. it’s a university city, apparently blending “historic charm with modern energy.” i mostly saw a lot of bicycles and people bundled up in coats. it feels like a time capsule, apparently. i can see that, i guess. it’s… quaint.

things to be aware of? canals freeze in winter. expect wind and rain. easy navigation via buses and trains. bike-friendly. polder landscapes accessible. basically, pack for all weather conditions and prepare to cycle everywhere.

leiden stands out for its university prestige, canals, pilgrim history, and being the “city of science.” it’s all very… well-documented. i’m exhausted just repeating it. i need another stroopwafel.

okay, i’m done. i’m going to go lie down.

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