Lima: Where the Coins and the Nights Blend
okay, so here i am, in lima, the city of kings and busking spots. remember that number, 3940002? well, that's the total number of coins i've collected since i started this crazy adventure. and 1604316784? that's the day, back in december, when i decided to trade my office job for a ukulele and a dream. let me tell you, it's been a ride.
the weather here? man, it's that sticky kind of warm, you know? the kind that makes your shirt stick to your back but also makes the air smell like salt and distant car exhaust. i just checked and it's...there right now, that 24.89 degrees, feels like 25.45, hope you like that kind of thing. it's not too bad, actually, once you get used to it. the humidity? 77%, which means your hair is gonna rebel and your skin is gonna feel like it's wearing a sweater. but hey, that's lima for you.
so, i'm busking in miraflores, right by the cliffs. the view is insane, the pacific just crashes below, and the tourists are always down for a tune. but let me tell you, someone told me that the cops here are not as chill as they seem. they'll let you play for a while, but then they come and ask for a "donation" to the city. i heard that from this guy, julio, who's been busking for 20 years. he said, "son, the only thing that separates us from the street vendors is the music, but they get you too."
if you get tired of the concrete, the beaches are just a short bus ride away. i mean, real beaches. the kind where you can watch the sunset and pretend you're not broke. i did that the other day, just took my uke and sat on the sand. the waves were doing their thing, and i played "somewhere over the rainbow" for like an hour. no tips, but free therapy, you know?
and then there's the food. oh, the food. i spent the last of my savings on this ceviche place, and let me tell you, it was worth it. someone told me that the best ceviche in lima is at a place called la mar, but i went to this spot called *el pescador and it was bomb. the fish was so fresh it practically jumped out of the ocean and onto my plate. the owner, this old dude named carlos, he just winked at me and said, "we have to keep the buskers alive, no?" and he gave me a free chicha morada. that's the spirit.
last night, i busked in the centro historico. the buildings are these massive, colonial things that look like they're from a movie. the acoustics are incredible. but i heard from a local that it's a bit sketchy at night, so i packed up by 8. i mean, i'm a busker, not a daredevil. i did make enough for a plate of lomo saltado and a bed in a hostel, so that's a win.
you know, if you're thinking of coming to lima, check out the miraflores cliff walk for the views, and then hit up the mercado indio for some cheap eats. and if you see a guy with a ukelele and a dream, say hi. maybe drop a coin or two. or not. the music's free, but the busker's gotta eat.
oh, and one more thing: i found this blog called lima info that's got some cool spots. https://www.limainfo.org/ and if you're looking for a place to eat, try el pescador* - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294324-d536562-Reviews-Miraflores_Central_Park-Lima_Lima_Region.html - they've got the vibe. and for the busker-friendly spots, check out this thread on lonely planet: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/peru-lima - it helped me.
so that's it for now. lima's got that magic, you know? the kind that makes you forget about the numbers and just live in the moment. i'm off to find a corner and play for the sunset. peace out.