Lisbon, Honestly? It's a Whole Thing.
okay, so lisbon. i didn't plan on lisbon, it just…happened. i was supposed to be in berlin, chasing down a lead on a vintage synth (long story, involves a questionable eBay seller and a lot of hope), but flights got cancelled and suddenly i was staring at ridiculously cheap tickets to portugal. figured, why not?
and it is a thing. a beautiful, crumbling, slightly chaotic thing. i’m a *freelance photographer, so i’m always looking for light, and lisbon has it in spades. that golden hour glow? unreal. but it’s not all postcard perfect. it’s…real. like, really real.
i just checked and it's…a bit humid, honestly. like walking into a warm hug that doesn’t quite let go. the weather app says twenty-three point something, but it feels like you’re constantly on the verge of needing a fan. and the air smells like salt and something vaguely floral, maybe jasmine? it’s a good smell, but it sticks to everything.
i’ve been staying in this tiny apartment in alfama, which is basically a maze of narrow streets and fado music. the walls are covered in azulejos (those gorgeous tiles), and my neighbor, señora esmeralda, keeps trying to feed me pastries. she doesn’t speak a word of english, and my portuguese is limited to “obrigado,” but we communicate through gestures and a shared love of sugar. if you get bored, sintra is just a quick train ride away, apparently.
someone told me that the Time Out Market is a total tourist trap, but you have to go for the bacalhau. like, it’s a religious experience. apparently, you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with everyone, but it’s worth it.
i spent yesterday wandering around belém, trying to get a decent shot of the jerónimos monastery. it’s stunning, obviously, but there were approximately one million other people doing the same thing. i ended up taking photos of pigeons instead. they were more cooperative. i also tried a pastel de nata (or five). they’re…addictive. seriously.
i overheard some drunk guys in a bar complaining about the hills. apparently, lisbon is built on seven of them, and your legs will hate you by the end of the day. they weren’t wrong. invest in comfortable shoes. seriously. i’m regretting my stylish-but-impractical boots right now. check out this guide to walking tours: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g189513-Activities-Lisbon_Lisbon_District.html.
i’ve been trying to find some good street art, but it’s a bit more hidden than i expected. i found a cool mural near cais do sodré, though. it’s a bit rough around the edges, but that’s kind of the point, right? i’ve been documenting everything on my instagram, if anyone’s interested: https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/414006844444444/.
a local warned me about pickpockets on the number 28 tram. apparently, it’s a prime target for tourists. keep your belongings close!
i also stumbled upon this amazing little vintage shop in bairro alto. it’s called “a vida portuguesa” (i think) and it’s full of old postcards, ceramics, and random treasures. i spent way too much money there. no regrets. you can find more vintage stores here: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Vintage+Clothing&find_loc=Lisbon%2C+Portugal.
someone told me that the best seafood is actually outside of the city center, in a little town called cascais. i haven’t made it there yet, but it’s on the list. i’m also planning a day trip to evora*, apparently it’s got some seriously creepy bone chapels. i’m into that kind of thing. you can find more info about evora here: https://www.visitportugal.com/en/content/evora.
honestly, lisbon is exhausting. but it’s good exhausting. it’s the kind of place that gets under your skin and makes you want to stay a little longer, even if your feet are killing you and you’re covered in humidity. i’m not sure what’s next, but for now, i’m going to go find another pastel de nata and get lost in these streets.