Lisbon’s a Blur: Rain, Pastel Buildings, and Seriously Strong Coffee
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and the sheer force of will. 2342490… that’s the number of pastel buildings i’ve stared at today. 1566877863 - that’s the timestamp of my brain completely short-circuiting. the weather here is… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s like someone took a watercolor palette and just aggressively splashed it everywhere. constant drizzle, a grey sky that’s perpetually judging, and a humidity that’s clinging to you like a particularly persistent admirer. feels like 19.82, temp min 21.22, temp max 21.22, pressure 1015, humidity 16, sea level 1015, grnd level 936. seriously, my shoes are permanently damp.
i landed in Lisbon yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a really cool, slightly melancholic movie. it’s not… shiny. it’s not aggressively ‘Instagrammable’ in the way some places are. it’s just… there. and it’s beautiful in a way that makes you want to curl up with a book and a ridiculously strong espresso. i’m talking about the kind of strong that makes your teeth vibrate.
i’m staying in Alfama, which is basically a giant, winding labyrinth of cobblestone streets. it’s a chaotic mess, honestly. i almost tripped over a stray cat three times this morning. someone told me that the best pastel de nata are at Pastéis de Belém - seriously, don’t even think about leaving without trying them. i heard that the line is insane, but it’s worth the wait. check out TripAdvisor for the latest updates: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g189194-Lisbon_City_of_Lisbon_District_of_Lisbon_Algarve_Region.html.
my neighbors are… interesting. there’s this old woman who plays the accordion on the corner every afternoon, and this guy who seems to be permanently glued to his phone, arguing with someone online. if you get bored, Sintra is just a short drive away - apparently, it’s got castles and everything. i’m not really feeling the castle vibe, tbh. i’m more of a ‘lost in a maze of streets’ kind of traveler.
i spent the afternoon wandering around the LX Factory, which is this repurposed industrial complex filled with cool shops, restaurants, and street art. it’s a total vibe. i grabbed some lunch at a place called Cantinho do Avillez - pretty good, but a little pricey. i also checked out the Time Out Market Lisboa, which is basically a giant food hall. it’s overwhelming, but in a good way. i saw someone spill a whole plate of seafood paella and just… shrug. that’s Lisbon for you.
i’m trying to capture the essence of the city with my camera, but it’s proving difficult. everything feels a little… washed out. the light is always grey, and the colors are muted. i’m thinking of trying some film photography - maybe that’ll help. i need to find a good local camera shop. i heard that there’s a great one near Rossio Square.
i’m seriously considering just staying here forever. it’s not glamorous, it’s not perfect, but it’s real. and it’s got coffee. lots and lots of coffee.
Someone overheard me complaining about the rain and said, “Lisbon doesn’t have sunshine. It has mood.” I think they might be onto something.
I’m also trying to find some vintage shops - i’m obsessed with finding unique pieces. i saw a really cool one on a local board: https://www.lisbon.com/shopping/vintage-shops/.
And, you know, i’m trying to avoid tourist traps. i’m not a fan of those overly-priced, overcrowded restaurants. i prefer to find places where the locals eat. i heard that the grilled sardines at Cervejaria Ramiro are legendary - but be prepared to wait. seriously, prepare.
A local warned me about the “fado” - apparently, it’s a type of Portuguese music that’s incredibly sad. I’m not sure I’m ready for that level of melancholy.
I’m going to grab another coffee and then probably just wander around until i get hopelessly lost. that’s my kind of adventure.
Check out Yelp for some more restaurant recommendations: https://www.yelp.com/map/lisbon-restaurants
Seriously, if you’re looking for a city that’s a little bit rough around the edges, a little bit chaotic, and a whole lot of cool, Lisbon is your place. just bring an umbrella.