Lisbon's Heatwave & My Quest for the Perfect Pastel de Nata (Seriously)
okay, so. lisbon. i’m still kind of buzzing, honestly. it’s been a while since i felt this…unsettled in a good way, you know? like, my brain is doing that thing where it’s trying to piece together all the little moments and it’s just…sparkling. i’m a touring session drummer, and usually, my brain is just focused on time signatures and whether the bassist is going to drop out again (they always do). but this? this was different.
first things first: the weather. i just checked and it’s…a shimmering haze of heat right now. like, the kind where the air itself feels thick and golden. twenty-eight point something degrees, feels like even less thanks to that sea breeze. pressure’s steady, humidity’s practically nonexistent. perfect for sweating through your clothes while wandering around, apparently. i’m not complaining, though. i’ve played gigs in worse conditions.
and the pastel de natas. oh. my. god. i’m pretty sure i consumed my body weight in those little custard tarts. i’m not even kidding. i made it my mission. i consulted several sources, including a very enthusiastic (and slightly tipsy) gentleman i met at a fado bar. he insisted that Pastéis de Belém is the only acceptable option. “Anything else,” he slurred, “is just…a pastry pretending to be a pastel de nata.” I’m not sure I entirely agree, but they were pretty spectacular. I also checked out Manteigaria - Yelp reviews were mixed, but I thought they were fantastic. Check out their Yelp page here.
I spent a lot of time just…wandering. Alfama, Bairro Alto, Mouraria - each neighborhood has its own vibe. Alfama felt ancient, all winding alleyways and laundry strung between buildings. Bairro Alto was buzzing with nightlife, even in the afternoon. Mouraria felt…real. less touristy, more lived-in. I stumbled upon this tiny little art gallery tucked away on a side street - Galerie Filomena. The artist was there, a woman with paint-stained hands and a mischievous smile. We chatted for ages about music and art and the absurdity of life. It was one of those moments that just sticks with you.
Someone told me that the trams are a tourist trap, but honestly, riding Tram 28 is a must. It’s chaotic, crowded, and occasionally terrifying, but it’s also the best way to see the city. Just hold on tight and try not to get elbowed in the ribs. I also heard that the Fado shows can be a bit…staged for tourists. I went to a place in Alfama, Clube de Fado, and it was pretty intense. Beautiful, but intense. TripAdvisor has some reviews.
if you get bored, sintra and cascais are just a short train ride away. i didn’t make it to either this time, but i’m already planning my return trip. i need more pastel de natas. and maybe a slightly less stressful fado experience.
*pro-tip: wear comfortable shoes. seriously. you’ll be doing a lot of walking on cobblestones. and learn a few basic portuguese phrases. even just “obrigado” (thank you) goes a long way.
gear list (drummer edition):
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving crowded trams)
Portable charger (because you’ll be using your phone for maps and photos constantly)
Small notebook and pen (for jotting down random thoughts and song ideas)
A good playlist (for those long walks)
A healthy dose of wanderlust
*another overheard rumor:* apparently, there’s a secret speakeasy hidden somewhere in Bairro Alto. nobody seems to know exactly where it is, but the search is half the fun, right? Check out this local forum for clues.
okay, i’m going to go lie down now. lisbon officially exhausted me in the best possible way. i’m already dreaming of going back.