Lisbon's Humidity & Half-Finished Thoughts
okay, so lisbon. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i came here chasing the light, but i think i found the moisture instead. it’s clinging to everything. i just checked and it's like a warm hug from a slightly damp stranger, which, you know, could be worse.
spent yesterday wandering around alfama, getting properly lost. it’s the kind of place where you turn a corner and suddenly you’re staring into someone’s *living room. not in a creepy way, just…very open. the hills are no joke, though. my calves are screaming. seriously considering investing in a donkey. i overheard someone at a pastelaria saying the best views are from the miradouro das portas do sol, but you have to get there before noon to snag a spot. apparently, it’s overrun with instagrammers after that.
"don't trust the fado singers, they'll break your heart and then charge you for the privilege."
that’s what old man joaquim told me while i was trying to photograph his cat. he seemed pretty sure about it. i’m not sure about the fado thing, but the cat was definitely judging me.
weather-wise, it’s…sticky. the data says 14.85°C, feels like 14.69°C, min 14.2°C, max 15.53°C, pressure 1021, humidity 88%, sea level 1021, grnd_level 1015. basically, bring a small towel. and maybe a dehumidifier. i’m not kidding.
food is amazing, obviously. i had some incredible seafood near the docks yesterday. someone warned me about the tourist traps in baixa, said they serve reheated everything. i think they called it “the sadness plate.” i’m sticking to the smaller, family-run places. found a great little spot on Yelp with rave reviews.
my camera’s been loving it, though. the light, even through the haze, is incredible. the tiles are a dream. i’ve been shooting mostly street portraits, trying to capture the vibe. it’s a bit gritty, a bit melancholic, but also full of life. i’m thinking of putting together a small zine when i get back.
if you get restless, sintra is just a short train ride away, and it's supposed to be magical. i haven't made it there yet, but it's on the list. i also heard porto is worth checking out, but i'm trying to resist the urge to just keep hopping around. i want to actually feel a place, you know?
"the best sardines are always eaten standing up, with a cold beer and a healthy dose of regret."
that was from a guy with a very impressive mustache. i think he was onto something. i’m currently fueled by coffee and pastel de nata. it’s a dangerous combination. i’ve been reading up on lisbon’s history on Wikipedia - it’s been through a lot*. earthquakes, dictatorships, you name it. it’s a resilient city, that’s for sure.
accommodation is…interesting. i’m staying in a tiny apartment in mouraria. the walls are thin, and i can hear everything. the neighbors are lovely, though. they keep offering me cookies. i’m pretty sure they’re judging my terrible portuguese. you can find some good deals on TripAdvisor. i also saw some cool apartments on Airbnb.
"never, ever, order the 'surprise' dish. it's always tripe."
seriously, don’t. i’m still recovering from that one. i think i need another pastel de nata. and maybe a stronger coffee. this place is growing on me, even with the humidity. it’s messy, chaotic, and utterly captivating. i’ll keep you posted.