Lisbon’s Sticky Secrets & Slightly Broken Shoes
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. 2317818… that’s the number of pastel tiles i’ve stared at today. 1566483135… honestly, i don’t even know what that means, but it felt important to write down. the air here is thick, like honey mixed with salt. it’s 26.08 degrees feels-like, 26.08, 26.08. pressure’s 1015, humidity’s 11 - which is basically a sauna wrapped in a slightly damp blanket. sea level’s 1015, ground level’s 965. sounds scientific, right? it’s not. it’s just…Lisbon.
seriously, i’m not gonna lie, i’m a disaster. my shoes are actively trying to stage a rebellion, my camera battery is flirting with death, and i’m pretty sure i just accidentally ordered a plate of fried sardines at 3 am. but god, it’s beautiful. like, aggressively beautiful. the hills are insane. you’ll be sweating before you even get halfway up a street. i swear, i saw a guy sprint up one and then just…stop. like, a full-blown, panting, ‘what was i even doing?’ stop.
i stumbled into this tiny little tasca - it was called ‘Zé’s’ - and someone told me that the best pastel de nata is at Pastéis de Belém. i’m skeptical, obviously. i’ve heard it all before. but i’m going. it’s a pilgrimage, basically. i’m also pretty sure the guy who told me was three sheets to the wind, but hey, free advice, right? check out TripAdvisor for more options: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g189194-Lisbon_City_of_Lisbon_District_of_Lisbon_Algarve_Region.html.
my neighbors are…interesting. there’s this old woman who yells at pigeons, and a guy who plays the accordion at 6 am. it’s a vibe. if you get bored, Porto is just a short drive away. i heard that the seafood is amazing there, but also that the locals are fiercely protective of their clams. take it with a grain of salt, obviously. i’m not saying don’t eat the clams, just…be respectful.
i spent the afternoon wandering Alfama, which is basically a labyrinth of cobbled streets and tiny, overflowing shops. i got completely lost, which is honestly my favorite way to travel. i found this amazing little record store - it was crammed with vinyl and smelled like old paper and regret. i bought a record by a band i’d never heard of, and i’m pretty sure it’s going to be my soundtrack for the rest of the trip.
i tried to take some photos, but my camera kept freezing. it’s probably the humidity. or maybe i’m just having a bad day. i’m not judging. i’m judging myself pretty harshly, but not anyone else.
i also checked the weather - i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
i found this incredible little cafe called ‘O Velho Eurico’ - it’s tucked away down a side street and it’s run by this guy named Eurico who makes the most incredible coffee. he doesn’t speak much English, but he makes a mean galão. i overheard gossip that he used to be a jazz musician, but he gave it up to open the cafe. i’m not sure if it’s true, but it sounds amazing.
i’m seriously considering just moving here. i don’t know why, exactly. it just feels…right. maybe it’s the sunshine, maybe it’s the coffee, maybe it’s the fact that i’m completely and utterly lost.
i’m heading to the LX Factory tomorrow - it’s this old industrial complex that’s been turned into a hub for artists and designers. i heard that there are some really cool shops and restaurants there. check out Yelp for some reviews: https://www.yelp.com/directory/lx-factory/restaurants.
i’m exhausted. i need sleep. and maybe a new pair of shoes. and definitely more pastel de nata.
oh, and one last thing: don’t trust anyone who tells you that Lisbon is “just like Paris.” it’s not. it’s…Lisbon. it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s sticky, and it’s utterly unforgettable.
i’m off to find a place to crash. goodnight, world.
P.S. - if you’re looking for vintage clothes, check out this online shop: https://www.vinted.com/