Lodz: Frostbite & Pierogi Dreams (and a surprisingly good skatepark)

okay, so lodz. it’s…a lot. i ended up here because my van, bless its rusty soul, decided it needed a ‘rest’ approximately halfway between berlin and warsaw. turns out ‘rest’ means ‘refuse to start’ in van language. anyway, stranded. but not complaining, honestly.

first impressions? cold. like, really cold. i just checked and it’s…actively trying to turn your nose into a popsicle, if you’re into that sort of thing. the weather report said -1 celsius, but ‘feels like’ -5.12? yeah, that’s accurate. my fingers are currently staging a protest. the air pressure is kinda weirdly high, 1026, which someone told me means a storm is coming, but honestly, i’m too numb to care. humidity’s at 51, which just feels…damply cold.

so, lodz. it’s not exactly postcard-pretty, you know? it’s got this…industrial vibe. lots of red brick, old factories, a bit gritty. but that’s what i like! it feels real. i spent most of yesterday wandering around Manufaktura (https://www.manufaktura.pl/en/), which is this massive converted factory complex. now it’s full of shops and restaurants and stuff, but you can still feel the history. it’s kinda cool.

and the *pierogi. oh my god, the pierogi. i found this tiny little place, U Babci Maliny (https://www.yelp.com/biz/u-babci-maliny-lodz), and i swear, i think i’ve found enlightenment in a dumpling. seriously. the lady who runs it doesn’t speak a word of english, but she just keeps piling plates of pierogi in front of me. i’m not even mad. someone told me that the place gets super busy on weekends, so go early.

“apparently, the old textile workers used to haunt the streets around Piotrkowska Street. looking for lost wages, or something.”

speaking of Piotrkowska Street, it’s…long. like, really long. it’s supposed to be one of the longest pedestrian streets in europe. it’s lined with shops, cafes, and bars. it’s pretty lively, even in this weather. i overheard someone saying that the best bars are hidden down the side streets, but i haven’t ventured that far yet. too cold.

and, surprisingly, lodz has a pretty decent skatepark*. i spent a couple of hours there this afternoon, trying (and mostly failing) to land a kickflip. it’s a good spot to meet people, too. i chatted with a local skater who told me that the police sometimes hassle people for skating, so be aware of that. you can find more info on local skate spots here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g274803-Activities-Lodz.html.

my neighbors seem to be mostly students and people who work in the creative industries. if you get bored, poznan and warsaw are just a short train ride away. i’ve also heard that there’s a really cool abandoned power plant nearby, but i haven’t had a chance to check it out yet. someone warned me that it’s heavily guarded, though, so maybe don’t risk it.

overall? lodz is growing on me. it’s not glamorous, but it’s got character. and pierogi. lots and lots of pierogi. i’m still waiting for my van to be fixed, but honestly, i’m not in a huge rush to leave. maybe i’ll stay another day. or two. or until my fingers thaw out. check out this local forum for more info: https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389118