Lost in Luanda: A Drummer's Dizzying Detour

okay, so. luanda. i didn’t plan to be in luanda. touring with the band, right? usual chaos. flight got rerouted, ended up here. and honestly? it’s… something. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? seen a lot of airports, a lot of questionable hotel breakfasts. but this? this is different.

I just checked and the air feels like a warm hug that’s slightly too clingy. twenty-six degrees, consistently. no surprises there. pressure’s steady, humidity’s manageable - not gonna complain about forty-two percent, especially after some of the swampy gigs i’ve played.

First thing i did? find a decent coffee. seriously, a drummer needs caffeine. stumbled across this little place near the *port, smelled amazing. the guy behind the counter, he just looked at me with this knowing smile. like he’d seen a thousand lost souls wander in. i asked him for the strongest thing he had. he just nodded and made something with condensed milk and… something else. it was intense. i’d give it a solid eight out of ten. check out some reviews on TripAdvisor if you’re curious: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298632-Luanda-Reviews-Restaurants.html

I’m staying in this… interesting neighborhood. it’s got this vibe, you know? crumbling colonial buildings next to these super modern apartments. it’s a visual clash. if you get bored, Benguela and Lobito are just a short drive away - heard they’ve got some killer beaches.

Someone told me that the nightlife here is… intense. apparently, there’s this club called Kilamba that’s legendary. “bring cash,” the guy said, “and don’t make eye contact with anyone you don’t know.” drunk advice, probably, but i’ll keep it in mind. i’m thinking of checking out some local music too. i saw a poster for a kizomba show. gotta experience the local rhythm, right?

I’ve been wandering around, just soaking it all in. the markets are insane. piles of fish, mountains of fruit, fabrics everywhere. the colors! it’s a sensory overload in the best way. I even tried some moamba de galinha - chicken stew. it was… an experience. definitely not something i’d make at home, but i’m glad i tried it. Yelp has some decent recommendations if you're feeling adventurous: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Luanda%2C+Angola

I overheard some locals talking about the Ilha do Cabo, apparently it’s a must-see. “go early,” one of them said, “before the crowds.” good tip. I’m thinking of heading there tomorrow.

Honestly, i’m just going with the flow. no itinerary, no pressure. just drums, coffee, and a whole lot of unexpected adventure. i’m even thinking about picking up a local percussion instrument. maybe a caxixi*? it would look great on my kit.

If you're looking for more info on Angola, check out this website: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/angola. It's got some useful stuff.

And one last thing: someone warned me about the traffic. “it’s a free-for-all,” they said. “honestly, it’s like everyone’s playing their own version of a drum solo.” pretty accurate, actually.

Okay, gotta go. the sun’s setting, and i think i hear music coming from down the street. wish me luck.