Lost in the Humidity: A Botanist's (Slightly Panicked) Dispatch from Davao City
okay, so. Davao. I’m here. And it’s…a lot. I’m Elara, by the way, and I’m a botanist, which basically means I spend most of my time staring at plants and occasionally getting dirt under my fingernails. This trip was supposed to be about documenting the unique flora of Mindanao, specifically around Davao, but honestly, right now it’s mostly about trying to remember to drink water.
I just checked and it’s clinging to everything like a damp hug - a solid 89% humidity. My hair is actively rebelling. My notebook is warping. My camera lens is permanently fogged. It’s…atmospheric, I guess? If you’re into that sort of thing. I’m not entirely sure I am.
I’m staying in a little guesthouse near *San Pedro Cathedral. It’s…rustic. Let’s go with rustic. The owner, a lovely woman named Nanay Elena, keeps offering me strong coffee and telling me stories about her grandchildren. Which is sweet, but I’m pretty sure she thinks I’m here to find a husband, not rare orchids.
I spent yesterday exploring People's Park. It’s surprisingly well-maintained, a little oasis of green in the middle of the city. Lots of interesting palms and flowering vines. I even spotted a few species I haven’t seen documented in this region. That’s the good news. The bad news? Apparently, there’s a lot of petty theft there. Someone told me that a tourist lost their phone just yesterday. Keep an eye on your stuff, folks. Seriously.
I’m trying to get out to Mount Apo soon, that’s the big goal. The biodiversity up there is supposed to be incredible. But Nanay Elena warned me about the unpredictable weather. “The mountain has a temper,” she said, stirring sugar into my coffee. “Don’t go unless you’re prepared.” Wise words, I think.
I’ve been trying to find some decent local food. Yelp is…sparse, to say the least. But I did stumble across a little carinderia (small eatery) near my guesthouse. The adobo was surprisingly good. And the price? Unbeatable. I’m also trying to track down some kinilaw - raw fish marinated in vinegar. Apparently, it’s a Davao specialty. I heard that you have to be very careful where you get it from, though. Food poisoning is not on my itinerary.
If you get bored, General Santos City is just a short drive away - apparently, they’re known for their tuna. I might take a day trip.
Here’s a quick list of things I’ve learned so far:
*Bug spray is your best friend. Seriously. Invest in the strongest stuff you can find.
*Hydration is key. I’m drinking a liter of water a day, minimum.
*Learn a few basic phrases in Bisaya. The locals really appreciate it.
*Don’t trust everything you hear. Especially about finding a husband.
*Check TripAdvisor for updated reviews on restaurants. It's not perfect, but it's better than nothing. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298460-Davao_City_Davao_Province_Mindanao-Vacations.html
*Be aware of your surroundings. Keep an eye on your belongings, especially in crowded areas.
I’m off to explore the Davao Museum tomorrow. Hoping to learn a bit more about the local history and culture. And maybe find some air conditioning.
For more information on Davao City, check out this local tourism board: https://www.davaocity.gov.ph/
Wish me luck. And send coffee. Lots and lots of coffee. I also found this interesting article about the flora of Mount Apo: https://www.philstar.com/science-and-technology/2023/03/23/2556387/mount-apo-biodiversity-hotspot/
And just one last thing - someone at the market told me that the durian fruit here is intense*. Like, “weaponized durian” intense. Apparently, it smells like gym socks and tastes like custard. I’m…hesitant. But I might have to try it. For science, of course.
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