Luanda, Angola: Dust, Dreams, and a Whole Lotta Heat (Seriously)

okay, so. luanda. where do i even begin? i’m a botanist, right? supposed to be all about delicate ecosystems and quiet observation. luanda is… not that. it’s a full-on sensory assault in the best, most chaotic way possible. i just checked and it's hovering around twenty-nine degrees celsius, feels like a bit less thanks to the breeze, but the humidity? don’t even get me started. it’s like breathing through a damp towel. hope you like that kind of thing.

I was here for a research project - some weird, endemic flowering vine they’re worried about losing to urban sprawl. sounds dry, i know. but the reality is… well, it’s luanda. the city just pulses. it’s got this raw energy, this feeling like anything could happen at any moment. i spent a lot of time wandering around, trying to find these vines, and honestly, just soaking it all in.

I stayed in a little guesthouse in *Inga, which was… an experience. the owner, Maria, was a sweetheart, always offering me sumbalama (a kind of fried dough - seriously addictive) and trying to teach me Kimbundu. i’m terrible at languages, but she was patient. if you get bored, Lobito and Benguela are just a short drive away, both coastal towns with their own vibe.

Speaking of vibes… the street art scene here is insane. seriously, some of the most incredible murals i’ve ever seen. vibrant colors, powerful messages, just bursting out of the concrete. i spent a whole afternoon just wandering around Kilamba, snapping photos. it’s a newer development, a bit sterile in some ways, but the art really brings it to life. I’m thinking of doing a whole series on it.

I overheard some drunk guys at a bar near the Porto de Luanda complaining about the traffic. Apparently, it’s legendary. “You’ll spend half your life in a taxi,” one of them slurred. “Just accept it.” He wasn’t wrong. Getting around is… an adventure. Download the Bolt app - it’s the best way to navigate. Check out TripAdvisor for some restaurant recommendations too - TripAdvisor Luanda.

Someone told me that the seafood is incredible, but you have to be careful where you eat. Apparently, some of the smaller restaurants aren’t exactly… hygienic. I stuck to the more established places, and everything was amazing. Grilled fish, prawns, lobster… you name it. Yelp has some decent reviews, though they’re a bit sparse - Yelp Luanda.

I also stumbled upon a local forum where people were debating the best place to buy kitabu (a type of dried fish). It was fascinating to read, even though I didn’t understand half of it. Luanda Forum.

Honestly, luanda isn’t for everyone. It’s dusty, it’s chaotic, it’s hot. But it’s also vibrant, it’s resilient, and it’s full of life. It’s a city that gets under your skin, that stays with you long after you’ve left. I’m already planning my return trip. I need to find more of those vines, obviously. And maybe learn a little more Kimbundu. And definitely eat more sumbalama*.

Oh! And a local warned me about the mosquitos. Apparently, they’re vicious. Bring bug spray. Seriously. Lots of it.