Back to Feed
Long Read

Luanda, Angola: Humidity, Hustle, and a Whole Lotta Confusion

@Mia Sinclair2/14/2026blog

okay, so. luanda. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, not…this. but a grant, a weird obsession with Erythrina abyssinica, and a frankly alarming lack of better things to do landed me here.


let’s just say the air here is…thick. i just checked and it's clinging to everything like a damp blanket, a constant, humid hug you didn’t ask for. the temperature’s hovering around sixteen degrees, feels like it too, which is…fine, i guess? i’ve dealt with worse. the pressure’s a bit wonky, apparently, and the humidity is a solid ninety-three percent. you’ll need a towel just to think.


my mission, as always, was plants. specifically, finding a decent population of that Erythrina. and honestly? the botanical diversity is insane. but getting anywhere? a whole other story. the roads are…an experience. potholes the size of small cars, drivers who seem to operate on a different plane of existence, and scooters weaving through traffic like caffeinated bees. i’m pretty sure i aged five years just navigating to the Ilha do Cabo.


and the people! everyone’s hustling. there’s a palpable energy, a sense of…determination. i spent a good hour just watching a guy trying to sell phone charging cables out of a repurposed suitcase. he was good. seriously, he could have been a motivational speaker.

“Someone told me - and they were very drunk - that if you flash a smile at a taxi driver, they’ll charge you double. Apparently, it’s a sign of weakness. I’m not sure I buy it, but I’m definitely smiling less now.”


I’ve been staying in a little guesthouse near *Mutala. It’s…rustic. Let’s go with rustic. The shower dribbles, the electricity flickers, and the rooster next door starts crowing at approximately 4:00 AM. But the woman who runs it, Dona Maria, is an absolute gem. She makes the best calulu i’ve ever tasted, and she keeps trying to set me up with her nephew, which is…sweet, in a slightly overwhelming way.

if you get bored, Lobito and Benguela are just a short drive away, though getting a reliable car is another challenge entirely. I spent a ridiculous amount of time haggling for a ride to Quilunda Beach. It was worth it, though. The sand is white, the water is surprisingly clear, and the seafood is incredible.


Speaking of seafood, I overheard a local warning me about the fish markets near Talatona. Apparently, some of the vendors aren’t exactly…honest about the freshness. Something about “mystery fish” and “questionable refrigeration.” I’ll stick to Dona Maria’s cooking, thanks.

I’ve been trying to find some decent coffee. It’s proving difficult. I’m starting to suspect that instant coffee is the national beverage. I did find a tiny cafe in Cazenga that claims to serve “specialty coffee.” It was…an experience. Let’s just say I’ve had better coffee from a gas station. Check out this place if you're desperate: TripAdvisor - Cazenga Cafe. (Okay, I made that up, but you get the idea.)

I’m also trying to track down some local art. I saw a few interesting murals in Kilamba, but it’s a bit tricky to get around. Yelp has some listings, but they’re not always accurate: Yelp - Luanda Art Scene.

Honestly, Luanda is…complicated. It’s beautiful and chaotic, frustrating and fascinating, all at the same time. It’s not a place you just visit; it’s a place that gets under your skin. I’m still searching for my Erythrina, and I’m still trying to figure out how to navigate the traffic without having a nervous breakdown. But I’m also starting to feel…something. A connection, maybe? Or maybe it’s just the humidity messing with my brain. Either way, I’ll keep you posted.

For more info on Angola, check out Visit Angola. And if you're feeling adventurous, Lonely Planet Angola has some useful tips.

Oh, and one last thing: learn a few phrases in Portuguese. It will make your life so* much easier. Trust me.

You might also be interested in:

About the author: Mia Sinclair

Quietly plotting to make the world a slightly better place.

Loading discussion...