Luanda: Sweat, Samba, and Seriously Strange Vibes

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm café right now. luanda… wow. just… wow. i landed yesterday, and honestly, my brain feels like it’s trying to assemble a jigsaw puzzle with missing pieces. the humidity is intense. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 23.1 degrees, feels like 23.68, temp_min 23.1, temp_max 23.1, pressure 1010, humidity 85, sea_level 1010, grnd_level 900. it’s like stepping into a sauna that’s also a rainforest. and the air smells… salty and something vaguely floral, like someone’s grandma’s closet.

I’m staying in a little guesthouse near the docks - it’s called ‘Casa da Maré’ - and it’s… well, it’s something. let’s just say the proprietor, Manuel, has a very particular aesthetic. think faded velvet, mismatched furniture, and a collection of taxidermied birds that stare at you with unsettling intensity.

I spent the afternoon wandering around the *Mercado Municipal, which is basically sensory overload in the best and worst way. mountains of fresh fish, spices that burn your nostrils, and vendors shouting prices in a language i only vaguely understand. someone told me that the best moamba de galinha (chicken stew) is sold by a woman named Dona Rosa, but i haven’t found her yet. i’m on a mission.

I overheard some guys at a bar - they were clearly drunk - talking about a legendary bairro (neighborhood) called Viana. apparently, it’s a haven for street art and underground music. they said it’s a bit rough around the edges, but “totally worth the risk.” i’m adding it to the list. i’m also checking out TripAdvisor for some decent eats - Luanda Restaurants on TripAdvisor.

Speaking of food, i had calulu last night - a fish stew with dried beans and palm oil. it was… an experience. let’s just say it’s not for the faint of heart. i heard that the best calulu is served at a tiny stall near the Porto de Luanda. i’m going back tomorrow.

My gear list is a disaster, as usual. i forgot my noise-canceling headphones (seriously, how do people function?), and i’m pretty sure i packed three different kinds of sunscreen but no bug spray. rookie mistake. i need to invest in a proper travel backpack. maybe a Fjallraven Kanken? i’m also desperately craving a decent cup of coffee. i found a place called ‘Aroma Café’ - it’s okay, but nothing special. i’m hoping to find a real coffee snob soon.

I’m trying to get a handle on the local vibe. it’s a strange mix of colonial grandeur and gritty realism. the buildings are beautiful - lots of pastel colors and ornate balconies - but there’s also a palpable sense of poverty and inequality. it’s… complicated. if you get bored, Luanda’s are just a short drive away.

I stumbled across a local board with some incredible street art - it’s definitely worth checking out. Luanda Street Art on Reddit. I also found a great little restaurant called ‘O Marisco’ - they specialize in seafood. i heard that their grilled prawns are amazing.

I’m starting to feel like i’m getting a handle on things, but honestly, i’m just winging it. that’s kind of my style. i’m going to grab another café* and see what adventures tomorrow brings. wish me luck. and maybe send coffee.