Manila Mayhem: Humidity, Halo-Halo, and Honestly, Just Trying to Survive

okay, so manila. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in quiet places, and this is…not quiet. it’s a full-on sensory assault, and honestly, i think my camera is judging me.

i just checked and it’s basically soup out there right now, eighty percent humidity and feels like you’re breathing through a wet towel. twenty-three point eight eight degrees celsius, apparently, but that number feels like a lie. it’s the sticky heat, you know? the kind that clings to you and makes you question all your life choices. i’m pretty sure my lenses are fogging up just thinking about going outside again.

i landed with a vague plan to “capture the soul of the city,” which sounds pretentious even as i type it. i’ve mostly captured a lot of jeepneys and questionable street food. speaking of which, i tried balut yesterday. don’t ask. just…don’t. i’m still processing.

the neighbors here are…loud. not in a rude way, just…present. if you get restless, places like Tagaytay are just a quick bus ride away, which is what i’m considering for tomorrow. i need mountains. i need silence. i need to forget i ever saw a developing duck embryo.

i’ve been trying to navigate the old city, Intramuros, which is stunning, but also swarming with tourists. it’s a bit of a paradox. i found a tiny cafe tucked away on a side street - ‘Barbara’s’ - that makes a killer ube latte. seriously, worth getting lost for. check out some reviews on Yelp.

someone told me that the traffic in Manila is a spiritual experience. like, you’re supposed to achieve enlightenment while stuck in gridlock. i’m pretty sure i just achieved road rage.

i overheard some guys talking about a hidden speakeasy in Poblacion. apparently, you have to know the password and knock three times. i’m attempting to find it tonight. wish me luck. i’m also trying to figure out the best way to get to Binondo Chinatown. TripAdvisor says it’s a must-see, but also warns about pickpockets.

i’ve been trying to blend in, which is…challenging. i’m pretty sure i stick out like a sore thumb. i’ve adopted the phrase “bahala na” which roughly translates to “come what may.” it’s surprisingly liberating. i also learned that halo-halo is a national obsession, and i fully support this. it’s basically shaved ice heaven. i found a great place near Rizal Park - Local Guide to Manila.

a drunk guy at a karaoke bar warned me not to trust anyone offering me a “good deal” on pearls. apparently, they’re all fake.

i’m starting to think manila isn’t about “capturing the soul” of the city. it’s about surviving the city. and maybe, just maybe, finding a really good halo-halo along the way. i’m also considering a day trip to Corregidor Island. Philippine Primer has some info on tours.

i heard that the best street photography spots are around Quiapo Market, but you need to be extra careful with your gear. apparently, it’s a magnet for…opportunists. i’m going to brave it tomorrow. send good vibes (and maybe a dehumidifier).