Manila Mayhem: Lost in Translation (and Humidity)
okay, so manila. it’s…a lot. i landed with code 1730737 buzzing in my head (don’t ask, it’s a drum machine preset i’m obsessed with) and 1608036027 as my baggage claim number. felt symbolic, honestly. i’m a touring session drummer, which means i’m perpetually jet-lagged and fueled by instant coffee and the vague hope of a decent soundcheck.
first impressions? *sticky. like, aggressively sticky. the air itself feels like a warm hug from a very enthusiastic, slightly damp relative. i just checked and it’s…a constant 22.21 degrees Celsius, with the humidity hovering around 73%. feels like 22.39, which, let’s be real, is just the humidity lying to your face. the pressure’s 1015, sea level too, but honestly, i’m more concerned with finding a place that sells earplugs in bulk.
i’ve been wandering around Intramuros, which is…pretty. old buildings, cobblestone streets, the whole deal. it’s like stepping back in time, if that time involved a lot more scooters and street food. speaking of which, i tried balut yesterday. don’t judge. a guy at a local bar, “The Rusty Nail” (check it out on Yelp), dared me. it was…an experience. i’m not rushing back for seconds, but i can now say i’ve done it.
the neighbors here are…loud. in a good way, mostly. there’s karaoke happening at all hours, which, as a drummer, i can appreciate. it’s just…enthusiastic. if you get bored, Tagaytay is just a quick jeepney ride away, apparently. someone told me the views of the volcano are insane. i’m planning a trip there next week.
i’ve been trying to find decent drum shops, but it’s proving difficult. i overheard someone at a coffee shop (this place, “Bean Bliss” - TripAdvisor - has surprisingly good wifi) saying there’s a guy named “Mang Tony” who can fix anything, but you have to find him through a series of increasingly cryptic Facebook groups. sounds about right.
“Don’t trust the tricycle drivers. They’ll take you on the scenic route…which is code for ‘the longest, most expensive route possible.’”
that’s what a guy with a surprisingly large collection of vintage cymbals told me. he also recommended a place for sisig* (a local pork dish) that’s apparently “life-changing.” i’m skeptical, but willing to try anything once.
i’ve been trying to get my bearings, and honestly, it’s overwhelming. the traffic is insane, the streets are chaotic, and everyone seems to be simultaneously hustling and relaxing. it’s a beautiful mess. i found this cool blog about Manila street food (https://www.spot.ph/eat-drink/the-latest-eat-drink/73489/manila-street-food-a-guide-a00173-20180517) which is helping me navigate the culinary landscape.
“The best mangoes are sold by Aling Nena near the market. But get there early, she sells out fast.”
that’s what the lady at my guesthouse told me. i’m making it my mission to find Aling Nena and her legendary mangoes.
i’m playing a gig at a small club called “The Underground” on Friday. hopefully, they have a decent drum kit. i’m bringing my own sticks, just in case. i also heard from a fellow musician that the sound guy, “Kuya Ben,” is a legend. apparently, he can make anything sound good, even a kazoo.
honestly, manila is exhausting and exhilarating all at once. it’s a city that assaults your senses and challenges your expectations. it’s not for the faint of heart, but if you’re willing to embrace the chaos, it’s an unforgettable experience. i’m already planning my next trip back. maybe i’ll even learn to play the ukulele. or at least find Mang Tony and get my snare drum fixed. check out this forum for more local tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=345678
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