milano: a city that smells like espresso and old leather
woke up to a sky that looked like it forgot to put on makeup. 8.75 degrees, feels like 8.75, humidity at 89%, and the air thick enough to chew. milano doesn't do subtle. it slaps you with cathedral spires, scooter honks, and the smell of someone's nonna frying sage somewhere nearby. i just checked and it's damp and moody right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
first stop: duomo di milano. you can't miss it-it's the building that looks like it's made of melted sugar and ambition. someone told me that the best photos are from the rooftop, but honestly, the real magic is in the side streets where old men play cards and the espresso is cheaper than water. *via torino is where i found my favorite cornetto-flaky, not too sweet, perfect with a quick shot of caffeine.
"if you want the real milano, skip the galleria and head to navigli at sunset. that's where the city remembers how to breathe."
navigli is a maze of canals, graffiti, and tiny bars that serve aperitivo like it's a religion. i got lost there for hours, following the sound of someone playing a violin badly but passionately. it felt right. if you get bored, como and bergamo are just a short drive away, though honestly, you might not want to leave.
food-wise, i ate like i was trying to impress someone. ristorante solferino for risotto that made me question every other risotto i've ever had. pizzeria da giordano for slices so big they flop over your hand like a sleepy cat. and a random bakery near corso buenos aires where the cannoli were so good i ate three and didn't even feel guilty.
locals say milano is all business, no soul. i think they're lying. sure, the suits are sharp and the pace is fast, but there's a heartbeat here if you slow down enough to hear it. maybe it's the way the light hits the cobblestones at dusk, or the way strangers say "buongiorno" like they actually mean it.
i heard that the best time to visit is april or may*, when the weather is less "wet blanket" and more "gentle hug." but honestly, milano doesn't care what you think. it's going to be exactly what it is, and you'll either love it or leave it. i loved it.
if you're planning a trip, check out tripadvisor's milano guide or yelp milano for real-time tips. and maybe bring a raincoat. or don't. either way, you'll figure it out.
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