minsk in minus-double-digit hell (and why i stayed anyway)

woke up to that special kind of cold where your nostrils freeze together and you briefly consider becoming a hermit who only communicates via aggressive eyebrow movements. check the weather app like a fool: *"-13°C" it chirps, all cheerful. liar. my kneecaps know it's -20. my hotel window* looked like a Jackson Pollock painting made by lonely frost giants.

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