Moscow Musings: Freezing My Toes Off and Finding Unexpected Beauty

okay, so. moscow. it’s…a lot. i just checked and it’s currently spitting icy needles at you - there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, pack layers. like, a lot of layers. i’m pretty sure my eyelashes are actively trying to escape my face.

I’m a freelance photographer, and i was sent here to shoot some industrial stuff - factories, bridges, that kind of thing. not exactly my usual vibe, which is more like wildflowers and sunsets, but hey, a gig’s a gig, right? plus, the light here is…interesting. harsh, grey, but with these pockets of unexpected warmth. it’s challenging, which i guess i appreciate.

I’ve been wandering around, trying to capture the soul of the place. it’s weird, because it feels both incredibly modern and steeped in history. you’ll see these gleaming new apartment buildings right next to these crumbling, ornate facades. it’s a visual clash that’s kind of fascinating. i spent a good hour just staring at a building that looked like it was actively arguing with the one next to it.

Someone told me that the metro stations are a must-see. apparently, they’re like underground palaces. i haven’t made it to all of them yet, but the ones i have seen are insane. Seriously, check out some photos online before you go - you won’t believe it. TripAdvisor Moscow Metro has some good reviews, though most people just gush about the chandeliers. I’m more interested in the mosaics and the sheer scale of the thing.

Food-wise…it’s been an adventure. i’m trying to be brave and eat everything. borscht is a given, obviously. pelmeni are surprisingly good. i had some kind of meat pie that…well, let’s just say it was an experience. i’m not sure what was in it, but it was definitely meat-adjacent. Yelp has a decent list of places, but honestly, the best food i’ve had has been from these tiny, hole-in-the-wall cafes that don’t even have signs. Yelp Moscow Restaurants is a good starting point, but be prepared to wander.

I overheard some drunk guy at a bar complaining that everything is too expensive. he was loudly proclaiming that you can get better dumplings in St. Petersburg. i’m not sure if that’s true, but it’s definitely something to consider.

“He kept yelling about how the caviar was ‘a tourist trap’ and that real russians eat pickled herring. it was…a lot.

My neighbors? well, if you get bored, *Tver and Klin are just a short drive away. i haven’t ventured out that far yet, but i’ve heard they’re quieter. much quieter. which, honestly, sounds pretty appealing right now.

I’m trying to find some interesting street art, but it’s surprisingly hard. there’s some, but it’s not as prevalent as i’m used to. i did find this amazing mural near the Gorky Park, though. it was this huge portrait of a woman with these incredibly piercing eyes. it felt…powerful.

I’m also trying to learn a few basic russian phrases. it’s…challenging. my attempts at ordering coffee have been met with varying degrees of confusion and amusement. i’m pretty sure i accidentally asked for a horse the other day. i found a helpful language learning app, Duolingo, which is proving useful. Duolingo.

Someone warned me about pickpockets near Red Square*. apparently, it’s a common problem. so, keep your valuables close and be aware of your surroundings. it’s a beautiful place, but it’s also a busy one.

Honestly, moscow is…complicated. it’s beautiful and brutal, modern and ancient, welcoming and intimidating. it’s a city that gets under your skin, whether you want it to or not. i’m still trying to figure it out, but i’m definitely not bored. and i’m definitely going to need a hot bath when i get home.