Mumbai Mayhem: Curry, Chaos, and a Whole Lotta Humidity

okay, so mumbai. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, not dodging scooters and trying to figure out how to order chai without accidentally insulting someone. but hey, fieldwork is fieldwork, right? i’m here ostensibly to study the surprisingly resilient plant life clinging to the city’s walls and cracks, but mostly i’m just trying to survive.

let’s talk weather first. i just checked and it’s…a damp hug right now. twenty-one point one eight degrees, feels like twenty point three seven. the humidity is clinging to everything like a desperate ex. i’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience and is plotting its escape. pressure’s at a solid 1014, which means…well, it means it’s humid. i’m not a meteorologist, okay? i deal with leaves.

and the smells! oh, the smells. it’s a symphony of spices, exhaust fumes, and something vaguely floral that i can’t quite place. it’s overwhelming, intoxicating, and occasionally makes me question my life choices. i spent a good hour yesterday just trying to identify the different layers of scent emanating from a single street corner. it’s a challenge, honestly.

my digs are…rustic. let’s go with rustic. a tiny room above a tea stall in *Crawford Market. the walls are thin, the plumbing is questionable, and i’m pretty sure i heard a rat having a philosophical debate with a gecko last night. but it’s cheap, and it’s central, so i can’t complain too much. i found a surprisingly decent chai place just down the street - check out their reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g297604-Mumbai_Maharashtra.html. seriously, the cardamom is chef's kiss.

overheard gossip? oh, i’ve got plenty. someone told me that the Gateway of India is cursed. apparently, if you make a wish there, it’ll come true, but at a terrible price. i’m not superstitious, but i’m also not taking any chances. i’ll stick to wishing for a functioning air conditioner. i also heard that the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus is haunted by a British officer who died during the Indian Rebellion. spooky! you can read more about it on this local history board https://www.mumbaimetro.gov.in/history.html.

if you get bored, Pune and Nashik are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of taking a weekend trip to Nashik - apparently, they have some amazing vineyards. a little respite from the city chaos sounds pretty good right now.

pro-tip: learn a few basic hindi phrases. it goes a long way. and be prepared to haggle. everything is negotiable. i almost paid double for a mango yesterday because i didn’t know any better. rookie mistake. also, yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Mumbai%2C+Maharashtra%2C+India is surprisingly useful for finding hidden gems.

and the plants! i’m actually starting to see them everywhere. tenacious little things, pushing through the concrete and the grime. i found a patch of wild basil growing in a crack in the pavement near Marine Drive*. it’s incredible. i’m documenting everything, of course. this is why i’m here, after all.

drunk advice i got from a guy at a street food stall: “don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘special’ chai.” apparently, it’s not always what it seems. noted.

okay, i’m off to find some more plants and maybe avoid any cursed landmarks. wish me luck. and send help (and a dehumidifier).

check out this article about Mumbai's urban flora https://www.thebetterindia.com/134897/mumbai-urban-flora-plants-city-environment/