Long Read

my chaotic fortaleza notes

@Jonah Riggs2/5/2026blog
my chaotic fortaleza notes

honestly, i spent a week in fortaleza and my brain is still buzzing from the heat, the sand, the endless honks, and the way the city seems to glow even at midnight. the streets are a mix of sleek modern avenues and crumbling colonial facades, and i kept getting lost in neighborhoods that felt like they were borrowed from another country. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i woke up to a sky that was a weird shade of orange and a humidity that stuck to my skin like a second shirt, and i wondered if i should have packed a lighter shirt or just surrendered to the sweat. the weather here is a constant roller coaster of sticky mornings and sudden afternoon downpours, especially from january to july, when the rain can drop up to three hundred fifty millimeters in a single month and turn the streets into tiny rivers. if you get bored, pacatuba, eusébio, maracanaú, itaitinga, caucaia, and aquiraz are just a short drive away, each with its own vibe and a chance to escape the city buzz for a bit. someone told me that the best way to beat the humidity is to chase the ocean breeze, and honestly, i think they might be onto something because the sea feels like a warm bath even when the air is thick. the coastline stretches for miles, with long stretches of white sand that get crowded in the dry season but stay surprisingly quiet in the wet months, and the water stays around twenty‑eight degrees, perfect for a quick dip if you can handle the occasional splash of rain. the city’s layout is a patchwork of high‑rise condos, sprawling markets, and pockets of green that feel like tiny oases, and i found myself wandering from one beach bar to another, trying every kind of fresh fish ceviche and coconut water that locals swear by. someone told me that the street food stalls near the bus terminal serve a secret recipe for carne de sol that’s worth the extra calories, and i ended up eating it three times in a row just to see if the hype was real. speaking of secrets, i learned that the city’s official name is fortaleza, but everyone calls it fort or força, and the locals are proud of that nickname even if outsiders think it’s weird. the map below shows roughly where the city sits on the northeast coast, right at the mouth of the pajeú river, and you can see the crescent shape of its coastline if you zoom in a bit.

i snapped a few photos of the sunset over the dunes, and i tried to capture the way the lights flicker on the high‑rise buildings as night falls, but the camera kept over‑exposing the sky, so i ended up with a lot of blur and a couple of accidental artistic shots that i think look cool.

high rise buildings near sea during daytime
aerial view of beach during daytime
people sitting on green chairs near beach during daytime

the vibe here is a mix of laid‑back beach life and frantic city energy, and i found myself oscillating between sipping caipirinha on a balcony and getting stuck in traffic that could last hours. the people are generally friendly, but they move fast, and if you linger too long at a market stall they might think you’re a tourist looking for a bargain, which is kind of cute. i also noticed that the city’s rhythm changes with the seasons: during the rainy months the streets get slick and the air smells like wet earth, while in the dry months the heat feels like a furnace and everyone is either at the beach or hanging out in air‑conditioned malls. someone told me that the best time to visit is between august and december, when the rain backs off and the sun stays up longer, giving you more time to explore the surrounding towns and maybe even take a day trip to the inland sertão if you’re feeling adventurous. all in all, fortaleza feels like a place that never quite settles down, and that’s part of its charm, even if it can be exhausting to keep up with the pace.


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About the author: Jonah Riggs

Curious about everything from AI to Zoology.

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