Nagano in the Cold: Drumming My Way Through Snow and Stories

the first thing i noticed stepping off the train in nagano was the cold biting through my gloves like it had a personal vendetta. the weather said 4°c, but with that wind it felt like someone left the freezer door open and invited me in for tea. i just checked and it's hovering around 3°c right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

i'm here as a touring session drummer, which means my hotel room doubles as a gear locker and my backpack sounds like a marching band when i walk. today's gig is at a tiny jazz bar downtown, but before soundcheck i had to wander. the streets were quiet, almost eerie, except for the occasional old lady sweeping her doorstep like she's been doing it since the Edo period.

"you won't find good ramen after 8pm,"

a drunk salaryman told me outside the station.

"only tourists eat that late."

i took that as a challenge and ended up at a place called Nagano Ramen Alley. the broth was so rich i could hear my arteries screaming in harmony with my snare drum.

between sets, i met a local illustrator who showed me sketches of the snow monkeys at Jigokudani.

"they bathe like emperors,"

she said,

"but they'll steal your snacks if you blink."

i made a mental note to visit, but first i needed caffeine. the barista at Coffee Roasters Nagano told me they roast beans in-house and only serve what's fresh. coffee snobs unite.

if you get bored, Matsumoto and Nagano City are just a short drive away, and both have their own weird charms. someone told me Matsumoto's castle looks like it was built by giants who got bored halfway through. i'll believe it when i see it.

walking back to the hotel, i passed a group of high schoolers practicing drums in a garage. the sound echoed off the snowbanks like a call to arms. i almost joined them, but my hands were too cold to hold sticks. instead, i stood there like a creep until they noticed and waved me over. we jammed for ten minutes, and they didn't even laugh when i missed a fill. kids these days have patience.

i heard that the best onsen in town is tucked behind a laundromat, but i haven't found it yet. if you do, don't tell me. i want to stumble on it like i did everything else here. nagano doesn't hand you its secrets; you have to earn them with cold fingers and a willingness to get lost.